Tag: financial literacy

  • How to Set $93,000 on Fire

    How to Set $93,000 on Fire

    My first experience investing did not go well.

    You could say I set $93,000 on fire.

    Here’s what happened.

    Matthew Adair thinking about the valuable lesson he learned about investing in 2008 that was like setting $93,000 on fire.
    Matthew Adair, founder of Think and Talk Money

    Back in 2008, I was a third-year law student. My entire life savings at that point was about $10,000. A lot of this money came from savings bonds gifted to me by my grandma for my birthday since the year I was born.

    I mentioned the year was 2008, otherwise known as the beginning of The Great Recession. As detailed in Forbes Advisor:

    The Great Recession of 2008 to 2009 was the worst economic downturn in the U.S. since the Great Depression. Domestic product declined 4.3%, the unemployment rate doubled to more than 10%, home prices fell roughly 30% and at its worst point, the S&P 500 was down 57% from its highs.

    Suffice it to say, 2008 was not a great time to be graduating or looking for jobs.

    Those of my friends fortunate enough to have secured a job offer soon learned that their offers were being rescinded. Such were the times.

    But, I digress.

    Back to how I set $93,000 on fire.

    As I mentioned, my life savings at the time totaled about $10,000. I had previously decided to use a financial advisor to invest my money for me.

    I had been working with this financial advisor for a few years prior to The Great Recession.

    All these years later, I couldn’t tell you what she had me invested in prior to the markets imploding. I’m assuming that she took into account my age and risk tolerance and designed a suitable portfolio for me.

    What I can tell you is that my portfolio suffered the same fate as just about everyone else towards the end of 2008. My $10,000 balance was shrinking.

    At that point, my advisor took me out of the markets and stashed the remainder of my money in a savings account earning close to 0% interest.

    I didn’t notice this maneuver right away. In fact, it wasn’t until 2010 that I noticed that my money was sitting in a savings account.

    When I finally caught on that my account balance had not changed for a couple years, I called my advisor. She explained that she had pulled me out of my investments when things weren’t looking too good.

    She didn’t have a good explanation for why I was still in the savings account in 2010. To be honest, it seemed like maybe she forgot about me. 

    By that point, the markets were improving. I had already missed all of the upswing from 2009. Since I had felt neglected, I withdrew my money and closed my account.

    I wish I could tell you that I started investing on my own at that point.

    Nope, that’s not how you set $93,000 on fire.

    Instead of investing, I let the money sit in my checking account until it just kind of disappeared. I had no plan for the money. All these years later, I have no clue what I spent it on. I just know that it disappeared.

    First Job during the Great Recession was not easy to come by.
    Photo by frank mckenna on Unsplash

    But Matt, you said you only invested $10,000. How did you end up setting $93,000 on fire?

    I’m glad you asked.

    If I had known then what I know now, I would have invested that $10,000 in a low-cost S&P 500 index fund.

    I also would not have taken my money out of that S&P 500 index fund when the markets dropped.

    Time was on my side. The smart thing would have been to do nothing at all.

    Between the start of 2009 and the end of 2024, the S&P 500 earned an average annual return of 14.98%.

    That means my $10,000 invested in a low-cost S&P 500 index fund at the start of 2009 would have been worth $93,265.90 by the end of 2024.

    That, my friends, is how I set $93,000 on fire. 

    And, I have nobody to blame but myself. 

    Let me make one point perfectly clear:

    It’s nobody’s fault but my own that I missed out on those earnings.

    It was my fault for not taking a more interested, and educated, approach to my personal finances.

    In a way, I’m glad I learned that lesson with only $10,000 at stake instead of later in life when I had more to lose.

    It’s not my financial adviser’s fault. She did what she thought was best. For some people, her strategy was probably successful.

    My problem was I blindly trusted my adviser without educating myself first. I didn’t know the right questions to ask. I didn’t understand the plan.Worst of all, I didn’t pay attention when my account statements arrived in the mail each month.

    In my mind, once I transferred my money over to my advisor, I was excused from taking any responsibility for my future.

    That was a mistake I’ll never make it again. When things didn’t go well, I had no one to blame but myself. 

    We all need to understand the basics of investing.

    Whether you choose to work with an advisor or not, it’s up to each of us take accountability for our own future.

    We need to educate ourselves enough to be part of the planning process. We need to know why we’re taking certain steps and be savvy enough to ask the right questions.

    You may be more comfortable working with a financial advisor. That’s perfectly fine. You still need to understand the basics of investing.

    My problem in 2008 and 2009 was that I hadn’t educated myself. I like to share this little story to illustrate how important it is to pay attention to our finances.

    These days, I manage my own investments. I’ve determined that paying fees for someone else to manage my money is not worth it to me. 

    By the way, we’re going to spend a lot of time talking about fees so you can decide for yourself if you want to pay them.

    Whether you manage your own investments or you use an adviser, it’s critical to understand the basics about investing in the stock market. The good news is the basic principles of investing are relatively straightforward. 

    Always remember: there are some things we can control and a lot of things we can’t control.

    We’re going to focus on what we can control.

    That means focusing on how much fuel you’re generating each month to invest in the first place.

    Then, it means minimizing fees and maximizing your time in the market. 

    If you can successfully implement just those ideas, you will wake up years from now with major gains to your net worth due to the power of compound interest.

    There are other strategies we’ll cover, as well. You’ve likely heard fancy terms like “diversification” and “asset allocation.” We’ll talk about what those phrases mean with the goal of convincing you that investing does not have to be complicated. 

    That’s right. Investing does not have to be complicated.

    You don’t have to read the Wall Street Journal. You don’t have to study financial statements. Even people who do that for a living struggle to predict what’s going to happen next. 

    So, let’s not waste our time. We’ve got better things to do on our way to financial independence than studying corporate balance sheets. 

    With even just a little bit of knowledge, you can feel comfortable and confident investing in the stock market. Then, all you’ll need to stay on track is the occasional reminder to think and talk about money with your loved ones.

    You won’t even have to set $93,000 on fire first. 

  • My Journey to Financial Freedom

    My Journey to Financial Freedom

    Financial freedom doesn’t happen overnight. I’ve been on my journey to financial freedom for more than a decade.

    I’m not there yet.

    Here’s a look at how my journey to financial freedom has progressed since I graduated law school in 2009.

    My journey to financial freedom began in my late-20s and was focused on eliminating debt.

    In my 20s, I needed to pay off credit card debt and student loan debt. All I knew about the journey to financial freedom back then was that it seemed very far away.

    I started budgeting, which meant reigning in my spending on things I didn’t really care about.

    I began to establish good money habits. It wasn’t easy, and I was far from perfect. That’s OK. The 80/20 rule reminds us that we don’t need to aim for perfection.

    By the way, my life didn’t all of a sudden become boring and miserable when I became more money conscious. Quite the opposite, actually.

    I became more confident in myself because I had a plan. I no longer felt like I was sliding backwards. With each paycheck, I moved one step closer to erasing my debt. That was a powerful feeling.

    In my early-30s, my journey to financial freedom was about fueling my savings.

    By the time I turned 30, I had paid off my credit card debt and my student loan debt. I’ll never forget the day I made my last student loan payment as my family and I were heading out to Colorado. A huge weight had been lifted from my shoulders.

    I felt free. My journey to financial freedom was still in the early stages, but I was on my way. Most importantly, I still had good habits and a plan.

    The byproduct of eliminating my debt was that I had more fuel to accomplish my other goals.

    Financial Freedom wooden sign with a beach on background, illustrating that my journey to financial freedom and the journey to financial freedom for lawyers and professionals does not happen over night.

    What other goals?

    The money I had been allocating to student loan and credit card debt could now be put towards more fun goals and experiences.

    Instead of aimlessly spending the thousands of dollars each month that had been going towards debt, I rolled that money directly into savings. Highest on my list was saving for an engagement ring.

    Within a year, I had enough saved to purchase the ring. I thought being free from debt was strong motivation. Turns out that motivation was nothing compared to the desire to buy a ring for the woman you love.

    As your career progresses and you earn more money, you will benefit from strong personal finance habits.

    As my career progressed, like many of you, I started earning more money. When I earned more, I did my best to use that additional income as fuel for my goals.

    I’m grateful I had previously learned strong personal finance habits on my journey to financial freedom when I earned relatively little.

    For most of us, our usual career progression is the exact opposite of the typical lottery winner. Who hasn’t heard the stories about the lottery winners that hit it big and then quickly go broke?

    These stories are unfortunately all too common. What starts out with so much elation usually ends in tragedy.

    The normal downfall involves unrestrained spending on things like houses, cars, and extravagant nights out. It also involves the pressure to give money away to family, friends, and charities.

    The same pattern has been well-documented for professional athletes who earn millions before quickly going broke.

    The challenge is the same for lottery winners and professional athletes. They come into a lot of money suddenly without any prior personal finance education. When this happens, that money disappears quickly.

    What can we learn from lottery winners and professional athletes?

    I think it’s safe to say that none of us are going to win the lottery or earn millions as a professional athlete. I hope I’m wrong about that!

    But, we can still fall victim to the same set of challenges on the journey to financial freedom. It may not be a sudden rise and then an equally sudden drop-off. Our financial growth presents itself more slowly.

    Over time, we may earn referrals/commissions, raises, and bonuses. These earnings certainly add up and can make a huge difference in our lives, if we have a plan. That’s a big “if” for most of us.

    I didn’t have the full plan figured out in my 20s. Our goals change as life changes. There’s nothing wrong with that.

    That said, because of the steps I took in my 20s to learn about personal finance, I was better prepared for the opportunities and challenges that arose in my 30s. I learned that when you create a solid foundation for yourself, you have options.

    To me, life is all about giving yourself options. Nobody likes feeling stuck, including me.

    In my mid-30s, my journey to financial freedom was about building wealth through real estate.

    Besides saving for an engagement ring and a wedding, I was able to save up for a downpayment on a home. At the time I started saving up for a home, I had no idea that I could use my savings to invest in real estate.

    It wasn’t until I went to a Cubs game with a good friend of mine, The Professor, that I learned about real estate investing.

    This is when my journey to financial freedom really accelerated.

    See, The Professor had a beautiful condo with an incredible rooftop deck near Wrigley Field. During the game, he told me he was selling the condo and moving into a 4-flat with his fiancee in an up-and-coming part of town.

    Huh?

    Why on earth would you give up your amazing condo? And move to a random neighborhood I’d maybe been to one time in my life?

    I thought The Professor had lost his mind. Back then, I had no idea what a 4-flat even was. I couldn’t even point to his new neighborhood on a map of Chicago.

    The Ivy at Wrigley Field illustrating when Matthew Adair accelerated his journey to financial freedom through real estate investing.

    The Professor set me straight.

    He walked me through the numbers. He explained that he was going from paying $3,000 per month for his condo to receiving $700 per month on top of living for free in the 4-flat. That’s a $3,700 difference per month!

    The Professor also introduced me to BiggerPockets. That was huge for me because I believe in the motto, “Trust but verify.”

    Over the next week, I read everything I could and listened to podcasts every day. It didn’t take long before I was convinced that I wanted a 4-flat of my own.

    Eight years later, I own three buildings and 10 apartments in that same Chicago neighborhood. I have a ski rental condo in Colorado.

    Without that great talk with The Professor, I don’t think I would be where I am today on my journey to financial freedom.

    Man I’m glad The Professor wasn’t afraid to talk money with me!

    He knew that taking about money is not taboo.

    We all need to position ourselves to benefit when luck comes our way.

    I was fortunate to have learned from The Professor’s experience. We all need some luck on the journey to financial freedom. I’m convinced that we’ll all catch a break here or there. The question is what we do with that luck when it comes our way.

    If I hadn’t taken the time to learn about personal finance in my 20s, I wouldn’t have been positioned to benefit from that conversation with The Professor.

    That’s why I say the journey to financial freedom doesn’t happen over night. It’s about one building block at a time.

    For any aspiring real estate investors out there, please take that message to heart. Before you can successfully invest in real estate, you have to invest in your own financial literacy.

    I’ve learned firsthand that the same principles that apply to personal finances apply to managing a real estate portfolio. Each pursuit takes a plan that only works with discipline and patience.

    In my late-30s, my journey to financial freedom was about paying off debt.

    In my late-30s, my journey to financial freedom pivoted from acquiring properties to optimizing my portfolio. My wife and I decided we were ready to transition from growing our real estate portfolio to paying off our debt.

    In a way, I’ve come full circle on my journey to financial freedom.

    We owe a lot of credit to Chad “Coach” Carson and his excellent book, Small and Mighty Real Estate Investor: How to Reach Financial Freedom with Fewer Rental Properties.

    Reading Small and Mighty Real Estate Investor helped us conclude that at this point in our lives, we have enough. Our portfolio generates enough income to help fuel our current goals. If we were to continue expanding, the headaches could end up outweighing the financial benefits.

    Progress is not linear, either. I’ve taken on debt in the form of mortgages and HELOCs to invest in more real estate.

    In the short term, that mortgage debt pulls me further away from financial freedom.

    If my plan works, that same debt will push me more rapidly to financial freedom.

    Financial freedom through real estate has existed for decades, if not centuries.

    By the way, I didn’t invent the plan of achieving financial freedom through real estate. That idea has existed for decades, if not centuries. I’d avoid anyone who tells you they pioneered this concept.

    Years ago, I remember sharing my newfound passion for real estate with mom. She had this smile on her face as I excitedly shared this “new” phenomenon of investing in real estate to achieve financial freedom.

    The next time I saw her, I realized her smile was actually more of a smirk.

    She handed me a book called How You Can Become Financially Independent by Investing in Real Estate.

    It was written by Albert J. Lowry, Ph. D.

    In 1977!

    Picture of a financial independence book showing that my journey to financial freedom through real estate is a concept that has existed for decades.

    Financial Freedom doesn’t happen over night.

    It’s natural to want to jump to the finish line. I’m guilty of that, too. I think about achieving financial freedom every day and need to remind myself to take it one step at a time.

    Even with all I’ve learned about personal finance, it can sometimes feel like I’m heading in the wrong direction.

    Wherever you currently are on your journey to financial freedom, remember that it doesn’t happen over night. I need to constantly remind myself to stay the course.

    Keep coming back to Think and Talk Money for daily reminders that financial freedom is within all of our grasps.

  • Money Questions: Markets in Free Fall

    Money Questions: Markets in Free Fall

    A reader reached out late last week and asked, “What do you do when the markets are in free fall?”

    It’s a question that really captures the intersection between money and emotions.

    I’m not an investment advisor, but I’m happy to share what I’m currently doing as the markets drop. Your personal situation may be different than mine so be sure to check with your investment advisor.

    Before we jump in, here’s a recap from Yahoo! Finance about how significant the drop was last week:

    US stocks cratered on Friday with the Dow Jones Industrial Average (^DJI) plunging more than 2,200 points after China stoked trade-war fears and Fed Chair Jerome Powell warned of higher inflation and slower growth stemming from tariffs.

    The Dow pulled back 5.5% to enter into correction territory. Meanwhile, the S&P 500 (^GSPC) sank nearly 6%, as the broad-based benchmark capped its worst week since 2020. The tech-heavy Nasdaq Composite (^IXIC) dropped 5.8% to close in bear market territory.

    The major averages added to Thursday’s $2.5 trillion wipeout after China said it will impose additional tariffs of 34% on all US products from April 10 — matching the extra 34% duties imposed by Trump on Wednesday.

    My hyper-technical analysis: that’s not good.

    Read on to see how I’m handling the market drop, how The Simple Path to Wealth helped shape my personal investing strategy, and how Die with Zero changed my perspective on how much to save for retirement.

    Let’s dive in.

    So, what am I doing with my portfolio right now while markets are falling?

    Despite how bad it seems, this is not a difficult question for me to answer.

    I’m not doing anything.

    I invest in the stock market to help achieve my long-term goals. My two main long-term goals are to save for college and to save for retirement.

    Each objective is so far away that time is on my side.

    man puts fingers down in lake kayaking against backdrop of golden sunset, unity harmony nature illustrating staying calm when markets are in free fall.

    My oldest child is five-years-old. I have 13-14 years until she even begins college. We make regular contributions to a 529 college savings plan to pay for her education. We fully anticipate that the market is going to go up and down over these next 13-14 years.

    As for retirement, I’ve still got decades in front of me. Same as what we just talked about with saving for college, I fully expect the market is going to go up and down many times before I retire.

    Make no mistake, I don’t enjoy seeing my portfolio drop so suddenly.

    Like everyone else, I don’t enjoy seeing my portfolio drop suddenly.

    It’s not fun to read the headlines right now. My brain seems to jump to the worst case scenario. Maybe you do the same thing. It’s nice to have someone to talk to about it. Misery loves company, right?

    This is one of the reasons why I only look at my portfolio once per month when I track my net worth.

    To remind myself to hold steady during the down times, I think of a study that examined what would happen if an investor missed the 10 best days for the market in each decade since 1930.

    As summed up by CNBC:

    Looking at data going back to 1930, the firm found that if an investor missed the S&P 500′s 10 best days each decade, the total return would stand at 28%. If, on the other hand, the investor held steady through the ups and downs, the return would have been 17,715%.

    These results illustrate how risky it would be for me to try to time the market. The last thing I want to do is miss the upswing. I have no idea when it’s coming.

    But, time is on my side.

    I’m going to do my best to be in the market when that upswing eventually comes.

    And, I am confident that upswing will come. It may not be until years from now. That works for me and my investment horizon.

    One other mental hack that’s helping me right now:

    I’m telling myself that the market is on sale right now. How so? I can buy the exact same stocks today for less money than they would have cost even a few days ago. I do love a good sale.

    In the end, no matter how bad things seem right now, I plan to continue making regular contributions to each of my investment accounts.

    Since I’m investing for the long run, I’ll let the market do its thing while I’m off doing my own things.

    Disclaimer: Your situation may be different. I am not an investment advisor. Do your homework and make the best decisions for your personal situation.

    What is my personal investing strategy?

    My personal investing strategy is largely based off of J.L. Collins’ exceptional book The Simple Path to Wealth. If you want a complete and easy to understand guide on all things investing, check out The Simple Path to Wealth.

    You can read my full review of The Simple Path to Wealth in my post here.

    If nothing else, it’s crucial to educate yourself so you can make informed decisions, especially in times of economic uncertainty like we’re in right now.

    The Simple Path to Wealth is a great place to start when it comes to investing in the markets.

    As Collins explains, benign neglect of your finances is never the solution. ReadThe Simple Path to Wealth and check out Collins’ website for a gold mine of information when it comes to personal finances and investments.

    So, what is my personal investing strategy?

    When it comes to investing in the markets, I’m about as boring as can be.

    My wife and I invest primarily in index funds.

    What is an index fund?

    As explained by Vanguard:

    An index mutual fund or ETF (exchange-traded fund) tracks the performance of a specific market benchmark—or “index,” like the popular S&P 500 Index—as closely as possible. That’s why you may hear people refer to indexing as a “passive” investment strategy.

    Instead of hand-selecting which stocks or bonds the fund will hold, the fund’s manager buys all (or a representative sample) of the stocks or bonds in the index it tracks.

    Why index funds?

    The simplest way to answer that one is to direct you to the single greatest investor of our lifetimes, if not ever: Warren Buffett.

    In 2013, Buffett famously instructed that after he dies, his wife’s cash should be split 10% in short-term government bonds and “90% in a very low-cost S&P 500 index fund.”

    Good enough for Buffett, good enough for me.

    For more on index fund investing, check out our full series on investing or read The Simple Path to Wealth.

    To sum it all up, my wife and I are not active traders. We don’t seek out the newest, hottest stocks.

    We’re pretty boring, actually.

    We simply make regular contributions to our various investment accounts and let the markets take care of the rest.

    As an example, for my daughter’s 529 plan, we chose a passive investment option that’s a mix of stock index funds and bond index funds.

    Our portfolio automatically rebalances over time based on my daughter’s projected first year of college. Essentially, the closer we get to her first year in school, the more conservative our portfolio becomes.

    We chose a similar option for our son’s 529 plan.

    One other note for context: Keep in mind that my wife and I are real estate investors. We own five properties and 11 total rental units. Our real estate investments comprise a major part of our overall net worth.

    How much money do I put towards each of your financial goals?

    Between saving for emergencies, saving for college, and saving for retirement, there are a lot of options. In addition, you may have other short term goals, like paying for a wedding or a house. Or, you may want to invest in real estate.

    So, how do you determine how much to allocate to each goal?

    There’s no perfect answer here.

    The first thing you can do is to spend some quality time formulating your version of Tiara Goals for financial freedom.

    Then, let those goals inspire conversations with your people to help you make the best decisions. This is exactly how my wife and I came up with our financial goals for this year.

    It also helps to attach specific targets to your financial goals, like we did when we estimated how much you should be saving to pay for college.

    I went through a similar exercise with my retirement savings after reading Die with Zero by Bill Perkins.

    Woman thoughtful about work at home office desk laptop wondering whether she is saving too much for retirement.

    As crazy as it sounds, are you saving too much for retirement?

    In Die with Zero, Perkins suggests that many of us are saving too much for retirement at the expense of using that money to live our best lives now.

    It’s one of the most compelling personal finance books I’ve read in a long time, and I highly recommend it. You can also learn more about Perkins and his journey on his socials.

    Perkins is not suggesting that saving for retirement isn’t important. He’s saying that the hard data shows that most of us are over-saving.

    When I read Die with Zero, I used an online calculator to estimate my projected retirement savings. As Perkins would have expected, at our then savings rate, my wife and I risked over-saving for retirement.

    With that realization, I made some adjustments and am now paying down HELOC debt at a faster rate.

    How much should you save for retirement?

    There’s no way to fairly answer this question. Spend enough time on the internet, and you’ll get many different answers. There are just too many variables in play, like what kind of retirement you want and when you want to retire.

    Perkins points out in Die with Zero that most of the advice out there encourages people to save too much money. You might agree or you might not.

    I encourage you to read Die with Zero and make that determination for yourself.

    At the end of the day, whether it’s saving for retirement or other major life goals, the most important thing is that you are consistently generating money fuel for your life.

    Don’t stress yourself out by worrying about the perfect amount to save towards each goal.

    Are you talking about your money mindset these days?

    It’s never been more important to talk to your friends and family about your money mindset. You don’t have to talk numbers to help each other during uncertain times.

    • Are you talking to your people about your money mindset?
    • What types of conversations are you having to help get through these times of uncertainty?
    • Would you recommend any books or articles that have helped you in the past?

    Let us know in the comments below.

  • 529 Plans for Sky High College Costs

    529 Plans for Sky High College Costs

    My five-year-old has already decided that she’s not going to college.

    She doesn’t want to sleep there, she says. Instead, her plan is to move in with her aunt.

    At least that’s one kid I don’t have to worry about when it comes to paying for college.

    In case your five-year-old hasn’t already decided her future, read on to learn about 529 educational savings plans, one of the best ways to pay for college.

    My students are already worried about paying for college for their unborn children.

    Whenever I teach personal finance to law students, we take some time to at the beginning of class to discuss what each of us would do with financial freedom.

    This is always my favorite part of class.

    Over the years, I’ve had students who want to travel the world, start businesses, pursue hobbies, and take care of aging parents.

    I’ll never forget the student who wants to coach high school football after working as a lawyer. Or, the student who simply wants the time to exercise every day. As she put it, “look good, feel good.”

    Of all the goals I’ve heard, there is one that comes up more than any other: paying for their children’s education.

    A lot of times, I hear this goal from students who don’t even have kids yet. I think that shows how important education is for many people. It also shows how worrisome it is to think about paying for college.

    What’s troubling is that my students typically have their own student loans to pay back. And, before they’ve even started their careers, they’re thinking about paying for the education of their unborn children.

    That’s intense. But, understandable.

    Some students share that they want to pay for their children’s college because they benefitted from their parents paying for college. These students were grateful for the opportunities their parents gave them.

    For other students, they want to pay for their children’s college because their parents did not pay for their college. They want to help their children avoid student loan debt as they begin their careers.

    For most people, saving for college is a top priority.

    According to a recent study by Fidelity, 74% of parents say they are currently saving for college.

    77% of parents think that the value of a college education is worth the cost.

    At a time when there is a lot of uncertainty surrounding student loans, it’s never been more important to have a plan to pay for your kid’s education.

    One of the best ways to do that is with a 529 college savings plan.

    In today’s post, we’ll discuss the major advantages of 529 plans. We’ll also learn how you can estimate the cost of college for your child so you can figure out how much you should be saving today.

    Be warned, the numbers are scary.

    What is a 529 college savings plan?

    529 college savings plans are state-sponsored, tax-advantaged investment accounts. The name stems from Section 529 of the Internal Revenue Code.

    While there are certainly other ways to save for college, 529 plans are hard to beat.

    The reason 529 plans are such a great way to save for college is because you receive triple tax benefits:

    1. Most states offer tax breaks on contributions to its residents for participating in the in-state plan. For example, as Illinois residents, my wife and I can deduct up to $20,000 in contributions to the Illinois-sponsored 529 plan from our state income each year.
    2. Your investment earnings grow tax-deferred, meaning your investments will benefit from tax-free compound interest. That means your savings will grow faster without being hindered by taxes.
    3. Investment earnings are 100% free from both federal and state taxes when used for eligible education expenses. Eligible education expenses include things like tuition, room and board, books, computers and other standard costs associated with college.

    An investment opportunity with triple tax benefits like this is almost unheard of.

    How do 529 plans work?

    In basic terms, 529 plans are investment vehicles designed to grow your contributions and make paying for college easier. When you invest in a 529 plan, you are generally investing in some combination of stocks and bonds.

    That means there is risk involved, just like with any other investment.

    Once you open your 529 account, you will choose how to invest your contributions. In this sense, 529 plans are similar to a 401(k) plan offered by your employer.

    Like with your 401(k) at work, a 529 plan will typically provide you different investment choices within the plan. You can choose how aggressive or conservative you want to be with your investments.

    The investment options will vary depending on which state’s 529 plan you choose.

    Every state offers a 529 plan.

    Every state offers a 529 plan. You don’t have to be a resident of that state to use its plan. You also don’t have to use your 529 savings for a school located within that state.

    Regardless of what plan you choose, the federal tax incentive remains the same. Money invested in 529 plans grows tax free. That means no federal taxes on your 529 earnings as long as the money is used for qualified educational expenses.

    While you also won’t have to pay state tax on earnings (same as federal), there are some additional state tax implications to be aware of.

    These state tax benefits are a bit more complicated because they vary state-to-state.

    Blue USA map with borders of the states and names on grunge background illustrating that each state offers a different 529 college savings plan.

    Remember, there is no federal tax benefit when you make your original contributions. But, most states do offer its residents a tax break on their original contributions for investing in-state.

    Morningstar has a detailed breakdown of which states offer additional tax benefits to its own residents.

    If your state offers tax benefits to invest in-state, that’s usually a good reason to choose your in-state plan.

    My wife and I use Illinois’ 529 plan, called Bright Start 529, for the added tax benefits we receive as Illinois residents.

    Besides the state tax benefits, keep in mind that not all 529 plans are created equal. 529 plans may offer different investment options or charge different fees. States may also provide different level of oversight, which may be important to protect your investments.

    You should always do your homework before choosing a plan to find one that matches your goals.

    I’ve found Morningstar’s rankings and analysis of each state’s plan to be the most helpful tool. According to Morningstar’s most recent rankings, the top 529 plans are offered by:

    1. Alaska
    2. Illinois
    3. Massachusetts
    4. Pennsylvania
    5. Utah

    To recap, when choosing which 529 plan to participate in, pay attention to what investment options are available within that plan. Also, look to see if you will qualify for additional state tax benefits.

    How much can I contribute to a 529 plan?

    Besides choosing the type of investments in your 529 plan, you can also choose how and when to contribute.

    Some people prefer automatic monthly contributions. Others prefer to contribute sporadically throughout the year, like when they receive a bonus at work.

    Unlike with most retirement plans, there are no yearly contribution limits for 529 plans. Instead, each state sets lifetime contribution limits per beneficiary, typically ranging from $235,000 to $550,000.

    This is a good time to point out that you can have a separate account for each of your kids. This allows you to save more money overall sine the contribution limits apply separately to each kid.

    It’s also a good idea to have separate accounts when you have different investment horizons based on the ages of your kids.

    For a complete list of the contribution limits by state, click here.

    By the way, if those limits sound incredibly high to you, you may be in for a shock when it comes time to pay for college.

    Keep reading to see what the projected costs of attending college are for a current kindergarten student.

    What happens if my kid does not go to college or I have money left over?

    If you have money left over in your 529 plan, you have some options. You can use that money for one of your other kids, without penalty. You can save it for a grandchild.

    As of 2024, you can roll extra 529 funds into a Roth IRA for the beneficiary, with some limitations. This was a terrific development for families worried about having too much money saved for college.

    If none of the available options work for you, rest assured that your money will always still be your money. You will have to pay a penalty and some taxes. Any unused earnings are subject to a 10% federal tax penalty plus income tax.

    How much should I be saving in my 529 college savings account?

    This is the ultimate question, right?

    While nobody can say for certain how much college will cost or how your investments will perform, we can make reasonable estimates to help form your strategy using an online calculator.

    I like the calculator available on Illinois Bright Start 529 website. What’s nice about this website is you can look up the future estimated cost of attending specific schools around the country.

    I also like using calculator.net. They have a College Cost Calculator where you can see how much college costs on average today and how much it is estimated to cost when your child starts college.

    Whatever online calculator you use, you’ll have to make some assumptions when you start plugging in numbers.

    For example, nobody can predict what your exact investment return rate will be. That said, you still need to plug a number into the calculator.

    What number should you use for investment return rate?

    • Bankrate.com and NerdWallet each suggest using an investment return rate of 10% annually (before inflation) based on historical stock market performance.

    10% seems like a reasonable number to use, keeping in mind that we’re just looking for an estimate to help us decide how much to save for college. Your actual returns may be lower.

    Besides the estimated return rate, you’ll also need to account for the rising costs of college. Most of the online calculators recommend you assume the cost of college will increase by 5% each year. That also sounds reasonable to me.

    One last thing: it’s never a bad idea to run through different investment scenarios to get a more complete picture. Try playing around with what the numbers look like if your investments only return 8% per year. Or, see what happens if college costs increase by 6% per year.

    With these assumptions in mind, you can start to get an idea of how much you should be saving for college today.

    Be warned, the dollar amount will probably scare you.

    Let’s look at an example using a current kindergarten student.

    Illinois’ Bright Start 529 calculator estimates that the cost of this kindergarten student attending the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign will be $264,735.

    Assuming you don’t have any current savings and you estimate a 10% annual rate of return, the Bright Start 529 calculator indicates you should save $10,796 per year.

    Does that sound like a lot of money?

    Want to really be scared?

    What if your kindergarten student is interested in private school for college? Maybe your child has his heart set on Northwestern University?

    Bright Start 529 estimates the cost of Northwestern University for your kindergarten student will be $691,942. That means if you have no current savings, you should be contributing $28,217 per year.

    Yikes.

    And that’s only for one kid.

    How are you supposed to save that much money for college?

    If these numbers sound scary to you, what can you do about it?

    I have some thoughts:

    1. First, you need to spend some time thinking and talking about why it’s important to you to be good with money. Maybe the reason is as simple as paying for your kids’ college. Whatever your money motivations are, write them down. This is what I did with my Tiara Goals for Financial Freedom.
    2. With the right motivation in mind, you then need to make a Budget After Thinking. The overall purpose of your budget is to generate fuel for your future goals, including paying for college.
    3. Next, you need to stick to that budget by tracking two simple numbers. Making a budget does you no good if you aren’t sticking to it.
    4. Monitor your savings rate and aim for steady improvement over time, even if you’re only able to save a small amount to begin with.
    5. While you start to build your savings for college, avoid the three big causes for why many of us fall into debt, which can cancel out all your progress.
    6. Along the way, talk to your people. Remember the cardinal rule of Think and Talk Money: talking about money is not taboo. You are not alone in trying to save for college or trying to live a financially responsible life. Talking to your people will help you stay on track when times seem tough.

    The most important thing is that you take responsibility for your own money life.

    Nobody else can do this for you.

    The good news is that embracing these tips will help you beyond just paying for college. These are the exact strategies that will lead you to a life of financial freedom, the ultimate goal for many of us.

    It’s not supposed to be easy. If it were easy, everybody we do it.

    By educating yourself on 529 plans and talking to your people about money, you are way ahead of the curve.

    Do you have a plan to save for college?

    • Have you started saving for college?
    • Are you currently using a 529 college savings plan?
    • How do you motivate yourself to make regular contributions in light of other financial goals?

    Let us know in the comments below!

  • When to Think Cash Instead of Credit

    When to Think Cash Instead of Credit

    Do you use credit cards for every purchase?

    If you would have asked me this a couple years ago, the answer would have been “100% yes.”

    I’ve long been a big fan of using credit cards to earn rewards points and to help track my spending. As long as you pay your credit card bills on-time and in-full every month, credit card rewards can be quite valuable.

    The best vacations I’ve ever had were paid for using points instead of cash. 

    My wife and I have taken some amazing vacations that we would have never gone on if we had to pay in cash.

    We used points to fly first class to Florence for our honeymoon. We’ve used points to stay at luxury hotels in Paris, Barcelona, and Santorini that normally charge more than a thousand dollars a night.

    When my wife and I were still dating, we went to New York for a wedding. We got out there two nights early, and I used points to book us a room at the Waldorf Astoria. This was back in my real life, really lost boy days when I didn’t have any spare cash for something like this.

    My wife and I had a great time at the Waldorf before heading out to Long Island for the wedding.

    I may have forgotten to tell my wife that in Long Island, we’d be sharing a room with two (turned out to be three) of my buddies. I didn’t have any points left for this hotel. Oops.

    She was a good sport. Not even the surprise ice storm from the groom in the middle of the night bothered her. She was a keeper.

    I could go on and on. The point is there was a long period of time where all of our vacations were paid for using points instead of cash.

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    Using points also helped me stay on budget and build my net worth. 

    Besides the incredible memories, the other major benefit to using points was that we could save more money every year. We could then use those savings to fuel our Later Money goals, like investing in real estate.

    That meant our net worth grew in the background while we were out having these amazing experiences.

    I also have long been a fan of using credit cards to help me stay on budget. With credit cards, I can quickly track my spending online during the month to see if I’m on pace for a good month.

    If I notice that I’ve overspent, I can slow down my spending to get back on track.

    Between the rewards points and the ability to track my spending, I still am a big fan of using credit cards for most everyday purchases.

    When used responsibly, meaning paying your credit card bill in full and on-time every month, credit cards can be part of a healthy financial life.

    That said, nowadays, I’ve started using cash more frequently. 

    I’ve started using cash more often these days. 

    I still use credit cards more than cash, but I’m starting to use cash more often than I used to.

    There are a couple main reasons for this.

    I use cash for the convenience for smaller transactions.

    I now use cash regularly for smaller or quicker transactions, like going to the farmer’s market, grabbing ice cream for the kids, or paying for taxis.

    Yes, I still take taxis. I work as a mesothelioma attorney in downtown Chicago near the courthouse. Taxis are plentiful and a lot of times quicker and cheaper than ride share companies.

    And, there are ATM’s on just about every corner near my office in Chicago, so it’s not inconvenient to keep cash on hand.

    For these types of transactions, I value the convenience of paying with cash more than the small amount of credit card points I would earn.

    I also like to pay cash to help out these types of small businesses because they seem to generally prefer being paid in cash. I leave whatever change I’m owed as a tip.

    Also, I’m no longer worried about precisely tracking my cash spending in my Budget After Thinking.

    Instead, I simply account for a few hundred dollars of spending using cash each month. I generally know what types of things I’m spending cash on, so I don’t worry about tracking each expenditure specifically.

    Besides convenience, there’s another reason I use cash more frequently now. 

    Besides convenience, I’ve started to use cash regularly for another reason.

    It’s not that the rewards have changed very much. Or, that I no longer like tracking my spending.

    It’s for a different, and somewhat disappointing, reason:

    More and more service providers, retailers, and restaurants are charging fees to use credit cards. These fees can be as high as 4% of the purchase price.

    These additional fees are sometimes referred to as “surcharges” or “processing fees.”

    Be warned, sometimes these fees are cloaked as “discounts for cash payments.” Don’t be fooled. This is just a sneaky way to say you will be penalized for using a credit card.

    Why do businesses charge processing fees?

    For a little bit of context, credit card companies make money by charging businesses a “merchant fee” or “interchange free” whenever customers pay with a credit card.

    Most businesses pay these merchant fees. That’s because there are plenty of incentives for businesses to accept credit cards. 

    For one, many customers prefer to pay with credit cards, like me. Businesses typically don’t want to lose out on these customers who prefer to pay with credit cards.

    For another, businesses are well aware of the fact that people tend to spend more money when using credit cards instead of cash. Obviously, it’s good for business when people spend more.

    There are certainly other incentives, as well. The point is that businesses have long paid these merchant fees in exchange for benefits provided by credit card companies.

    In recent years, more and more businesses have decided to pass these fees onto customers.

    Businesses, especially smaller businesses, commonly point to the past few years of surging inflation for why they need to pass these processing fees onto customers.

    Have you also noticed these fees popping up seemingly everywhere these days?

    As a consumer, whether we like it or not, these processing fees seem to be sticking around.

    So, what can we do about it?

    We can choose to use cash instead of credit, or we can choose to not spend our money at that business.

    Let’s look at an example to help you make that decision for yourself.

    Who really cares about a small processing fee anyways?  

    A processing fee of 4% may or may not sound like a lot to you. 

    Let’s look at an example to put some real numbers on it. 

    Let’s assume you’re going to buy a new TV that costs $1,000.00 (all taxes included) from a reputable store. A 4% processing fee on the purchase of a $1,000.00 TV means adding $40 to the price of that TV.

    That TV now costs you $1,040.00 with the processing fee.

    That’s a $40 penalty simply for using a credit card instead of cash. That’s a penalty that the next customer paying in cash doesn’t have to pay for the exact same TV. 

    Keep in mind this is a $40 penalty charged on just this one purchase. Consider all the other purchases you make with a credit card and what those total penalties could add up to.

    Since you really shouldn’t be buying that TV unless you have the cash available to pay for it, is there any good reason to willingly pay a $40 penalty?

    We’re assuming you’re shopping at a reputable store, so you shouldn’t have to worry about purchase protection.

    So, that really leaves only one potential benefit to using a credit card for this purchase.

    What about the points you can earn?

    Let’s play that out so you can decide for yourself.

    Aren’t points worth more than whatever the processing fee is?

    Let’s continue our same example of purchasing the TV for $1,000. 

    Including the 4% fee, the TV costs $1,040.00.

    Let’s assume you buy this TV using the Chase Freedom Unlimited, which is the actual card I would use if I were making this purchase. 

    The Chase Freedom Unlimited offers 1.5 points per dollar spent. That means this TV purchase of $1,040.00 would earn you 1,560 points (1040 x 1.5 =1,560). 

    Next, let’s look at my favorite website for valuing rewards points, The Points Guy. Currently, The Points Guy values each Chase Ultimate Reward point at 2.05 cents.

    So, 1,560 points, valued at 2.05 cents per point, is worth $31.98 ((1,560 x 2.05)/100=31.98).

    Now, we can decide if paying the 4% service fee to earn points is worth it. 

    In this example, by choosing to use your credit card with the $40 processing fee, you’ll earn $31.98 worth of points.

    In other words, even accounting for the points you’ll earn, this transaction still costs you an extra $8.02.

    Does that sound like a good deal to you?

    Personally, I would rather keep the $40 in my bank account instead of earning $31.98 worth of points.

    To me, this is not even a close call.

    No deal or a good deal? Hand turns a dice and changes the expression "no deal" to "good deal", or vice versa illustrating the thought processs of using a credit card with a processing fee or using cash.

    It doesn’t make a lot of sense to trade in a higher amount of cash for a lesser amount of points. Not only are you technically losing money, cash is more flexible than credit card points. You can use cash everywhere.

    I don’t think it’s a stretch to say you’d be hard pressed to find anyone who would take $31.98 worth of points instead of $40 in cash.

    What if the processing fee was lower?

    Even if the processing fee was lower, say 3%, my decision wouldn’t change.

    At a 3% fee, the TV would cost $1,030 and you would earn 1,545 points valued at $31.67.

    In this scenario, it’s true that the points are worth $1.67 more than the processing fee.

    I’d still rather have the cash. I value the flexibility that $30 in cash provides me more than a comparable value in points.

    Admittedly, it’s a closer call when the processing fee is 3%. I won’t argue with you if you’d rather go strictly by the math and have the points in this scenario.

    Money is emotional, after all, like we saw when choosing to pay down debt using the Debt Snowball method.

    I went through this exact process when paying my property taxes recently.

    Recently, I went through this exact thought process when paying my property taxes. I had the option to use a credit card and pay a 2.1% convenience fee. 

    I chose to pay cash, even though the points I would have earned were worth $170 more than the convenience fee.

    The math indicated I should have taken the points. Still, I didn’t like the idea of paying another 2.1% on top of my already sky-high property taxes. 

    Even though I lost out on valuable points, money decisions are emotional. It felt better to not pay the extra 2.1% and to keep that cash in the bank.

    Setting aside the math and the value of credit card points, there’s another reason I have started using cash more frequently these days because of processing fees.

    These processing fees really bother me on principle. 

    You may disagree, but I don’t think it’s right for businesses to pass this fee onto customers when businesses do benefit by accepting credit cards.

    I especially don’t think it’s fair when businesses spring this fee on a customer when he is standing at the register about to pay.

    Maybe it’s just me, but these fees annoy me so much that I won’t go back to a business that passes these fees onto customers.

    If it’s a business that I simply can’t live without, and there are very few businesses that reach this level, I’ll pay cash instead of using credit.

    I’m not insensitive to the fact that certain businesses are struggling with inflation. If a business is having a hard time staying profitable without charging a 4% fee, I would prefer that it raises its prices by 4% instead of surprising me at the cash register with this extra fee.

    At least then, I can make an informed decision ahead of time about whether I want to eat at that restaurant or purchase that item before it’s time to pay.

    I know this is a polarizing debate. There are business owners who I’m sure would vehemently disagree with my thoughts on the matter. That’s OK.

    Businesses are of course free to choose how to run their businesses. As a consumer, I am free to choose to avoid certain businesses.

    Have you noticed this processing fees more often lately?

    Where do you come out on paying a processing fee to use a credit card?

    Do you want the points or the savings?

    Or, do you avoid that business altogether?

    Let us know in the comments below.

  • Debt Snowball or Avalanche Better?

    Debt Snowball or Avalanche Better?

    Let’s take a deeper dive into the two most common strategies for paying back debt when you have multiple loans: Debt Snowball v. Debt Avalanche.

    In our post on how to confidently tackle debt, we discussed that it’s a smart idea to apply one of these strategies. Here, we’ll see why.

    You’ll notice we have lots of charts and numbers in this post. Don’t worry, you don’t need to do any math. I’ll show you how to use a simple online calculator to help you decide with strategy is best for you.

    Before we look at the strategies, always keep in mind the number one rule:

    Always pay the minimum required amount on every loan no matter what.

    Whatever strategy you end up using, always pay the minimum payment on every loan. If you fail to do so, you will be charged penalties and your credit history and score will be negatively impacted. You will also accrue interest on those penalties, compounding your mistake.

    Don’t worry if this sounds confusing right now. We’ll discuss credit cards and the responsible use of credit in detail in upcoming posts.

    The below strategies apply to any excess funds you have left after paying at least the minimum on every loan balance. No matter what, you need to make the minimum payment on each loan every single month.

    What is the Debt Snowball method?

    The first strategy is known as “Debt Snowball.” When you apply the Debt Snowball strategy, the idea is to focus on the loan with the smallest balance first, regardless of interest rate.

    Remember, these strategies are for helping you pay back multiple loan balances.

    Once you have paid off the first loan in full, you move to the loan with the next smallest balance, again regardless of interest rate. The money you had been paying to the first loan can now be rolled into the second loan.

    What is the Debt Avalanche method?

    The second strategy is referred to as Debt Avalanche. With this method, you will prioritize the loan with the highest interest rate, regardless of the balance.

    Once you’ve paid off the loan with the highest interest rate, you move to the loan with the next highest interest rate. Just as before, the money you had been paying to the first loan can now be applied to the second loan.

    You can apply either of these strategies in the same way no matter how many loans you have.

    The first step in choosing a debt payoff strategy is to gather some basic information on each loan that you have.

    For each loan, you’ll need to find the outstanding balance, the interest rate, and the minimum required monthly payment. You can pull this information from your most recent monthly statement.

    Once you have this information, you can plug the numbers into a simple online calculator. By doing so, you’ll get an idea of how much it will cost you (in terms of time and money) to pay off these debts.

    I like using calculator.net.

    They have calculators for all sorts of different purposes, including a Debt Payoff Calculator. Using the Debt Payoff Calculator, you can decide the best payoff strategy for your personal situation.

    You may prefer the quicker emotional wins that come with the Debt Snowball method. Or, you may prefer the savings that come from the Debt Avalanche method.

    There’s no wrong answer. The choice is yours.

    Let’s see how Debt Snowball and Debt Avalanche work in practice.

    Note, for simple illustration purposes, the minimum payments in these examples remain the same throughout the life of each loan.

    Example 1: Two Different Credit Card Balances

    Imagine you have two credit cards with balances owed.

    Credit Card 1: $5,000 balance with a 15% interest rate and a minimum required payment of $150 per month.

    Credit Card 2: $10,000 balance with a 20% interest rate and a minimum required balance of $200 per month.

     BalanceRateMin. Pay.
    Credit Card 1$5,00015%$150
    Credit Card 2$10,00020%$200

    After creating a Budget After Thinking, you’ve determined that you have $1,000 per month to put towards these two loans. Because you have to pay a minimum of $150 to Credit Card 1 and $200 to Credit Card 2, you have $650 left to deploy.

    How should you do it?

    Debt Snowball

    If you apply the Debt Snowball approach, you prioritize paying off the loan with the smallest balance. That means paying $800 to Credit Card 1 ($150 minimum payment plus $650 remaining funds) until that loan is paid off completely. The remaining $200 needs to be applied to cover the minimum payment on Credit Card 2.

    Once Credit Card 1 is paid off completely, you will add that $800 payment to Credit Card 2 for a total payment of $1,000.

     BalanceRate.Min. Pay.Snowball
    Credit Card 1$5,00015%$150$800
    Credit Card 2$10,00020%$200$200

    Using calculator.net, you’ll see that it will take you 18 months to eliminate both loans with the Debt Snowball approach. It will cost you a total of $17,303.70, of which the total interest is $2,303.73.

    Importantly, Credit Card 1 will be completed paid off in 7 months.

    Debt Avalanche

    Now, let’s see what happens when we apply the Debt Avalanche approach. Under this approach, you would prioritize Credit Card 2 because it has the higher interest rate. That means you would pay $850 to Credit Card 2 and only the $150 minimum payment to Credit Card 1. Once Credit Card 2 is paid off, you would pay the full $1,000 to Credit Card 1.

     BalanceRateMin. Pay.Avalanche
    Credit Card 1$5,00015%$150$150
    Credit Card 2$10,00020%$200$850

    Using calculator.net, you’ll see that it will take you 18 months to eliminate both loans with the Debt Avalanche approach. You’ll end up paying a total of $17,071.84, of which the total interest is $2,071.87.

    It will take you 14 months to eliminate the first loan, Credit Card 2.

    Now, we can compare the results of using Debt Snowball or Debt Avalanche.

    Under the Debt Snowball approach, you’ll pay $231.86 more in interest. It will take you 18 months to eliminate both debts under each approach.

    However, under the Debt Snowball approach, it will only take you 7 months to completely erase one loan. Under Debt Avalanche, you will not erase the first loan until 14 months have gone by.

    Now that you have this data, you can decide whether you prefer Debt Snowball or Debt Avalanche. Some people may prefer the emotional win of eliminating one loan completely after 7 months using the Debt Snowball method.

    Other people will prefer the Debt Avalanche approach, which results in more savings. The tradeoff is that they won’t eliminate any loans completely until month 27.

    As we said before, there is no right or wrong answer. It is entirely a matter of personal preference.

    Why not just pay the same amount to each credit card?

    If you pay $500 to each credit card from the beginning, let’s see what happens:

     BalanceRateMin. Pay.Equal
    Credit Card 1$5,00015%$150$500
    Credit Card 2$10,00020%$200$500

    You will end up paying off both loans in 18 months and paying a total of $17,249.39, of which the total interest is $2,249.42. You won’t eliminate any loans completely for 11 months when Credit Card 1 is paid off.

    Compared to the Debt Snowball approach, splitting the payments evenly means four more months to pay off the first loan completely. That means you’re waiting longer for your first emotional win.

    Compared to the Debt Avalanche approach, you’ll end up paying $177.55 more in total interest. If you’re looking to maximize your savings, splitting payments is not the way to go.

    As you can see, whatever your preference is, it makes sense to pick either Debt Snowball (fastest emotional win) or Debt Avalanche (most money saved).

    Personally, I prefer the Debt Snowball approach.

    I prefer the Debt Snowball approach because of the emotional win that comes with eliminating a debt in less time, sometimes even twice as fast.

    That victory is more important to me than saving $231.86 spread out over 18 months (the length of time it takes to eliminate both debts).

    If you prefer paying the least amount in interest, I won’t argue with you. There’s nothing wrong with saving money. It’s a personal choice.

    That said, there is one instance where I prefer Debt Avalanche to Debt Snowball.

    If you have Bad Debt, like credit card, always pay that debt first.

    Bad Debt typically has significantly higher interest rates than other forms of debt, like student loans, auto loans, or mortgages.

    Compare these current (February 2025) average interest rates for various types of loans:

    It’s not hard to see that credit card debt comes with a significantly higher interest rate than any other form of common debt.

    This is why I recommend you always pay your credit card debt first.

    Let’s look at a second example to illustrate this point.

    Example 2: Auto Loan and Credit Card Balance

    Auto Loan: $8,000 balance with an interest rate of 5% and a minimum required payment of $50 per month.

    Credit Card: $20,000 balance with an interest rate of 20% and a minimum required payment of $400 per month.

     BalanceRateMin. Pay.
    Auto Loan$8,0005%$50
    Credit Card$20,00020%$400

    Just as before, you’ve determined that you have $1,000 per month to put towards these two loans. Because you have to pay a minimum of $400 to your credit card and $50 to your auto loan, you have $550 left to deploy.

    How should you do it?

    Debt Snowball

    If you apply the Debt Snowball approach, you would prioritize paying off the loan with the smallest balance. That means paying $600 to your Auto Loan until that loan is paid off completely. The remaining $400 needs to be applied to cover the minimum payment on your credit card debt.

    Once the auto loan is paid off completely, you will add that $600 to the credit card debt for a total of $1,000.

     BalanceRateMin. Pay.Snowball
    Auto Loan$8,0005%$50$600
    Credit Card$20,00020%$400$400

    Using calculator.net, you’ll see that it will take you 37 months to eliminate both loans with the Debt Snowball approach. It will cost you a total of $36,753.16, of which the total interest is $8,753.18.

    Importantly, the auto loan will be completed paid off in 14 months.

    Debt Avalanche

    Now, let’s see what happens when we apply the Debt Avalanche approach.

    Under this approach, you would prioritize the credit card loan because it has the higher interest rate. That means you would pay $950 to the credit card and only the $50 minimum payment to the auto loan. Once the credit card is paid off, you would pay the full $1,000 to your auto loan.

     BalanceRateMin. Pay.Avalanche
    Auto Loan$8,0005%$50$50
    Credit Card$20,00020%$400$950

    Using calculator.net, you’ll see that it will take you 34 months to eliminate both loans with the Debt Avalanche approach. You’ll end up paying a total of $33,822.14, of which the total interest is $5,822.17.

    It will take you 27 months to eliminate the credit card debt.

    We can again compare the results of using Debt Snowball and Debt Avalanche.

    Under the Debt Snowball approach, you’ll pay $2,931.01 more in interest. It will also take you three months longer to eliminate both debts.

    On the plus side, your auto loan will be completely paid off in 14 months, which is nearly twice as fast as with Debt Avalanche.

    Some people may still prefer the emotional win of eliminating one loan completely after 14 months using the Debt Snowball method.

    For me, the price of that emotional win has gotten too expensive. I would prefer to save the $2,931.01 and have both loans paid off in less time, even if that means waiting longer to pay off a single loan.

    If you do this exercise with any normal credit card compared to another form of loan, you’re likely going to find that the credit card interest rates are so high that you should target those loans first.

    Do you prefer Debt Snowball or Debt Avalanche?

    As we said before, there’s no right or wrong answer. Money decisions are emotional. Paying off debt is the perfect example.

    Using a simple online calculator can help you make the best decision for your situation. All you need to do is find the balance, interest rate, and minimum payment for each of your loans and the calculator will do the rest.

    Whichever method you choose, stick with it. Save yourself the stress of doing mental gymnastics each month.

    The most important thing is that you are making your payments every month.

    Have you used Debt Snowball or Debt Avalanche?

    Which method do you prefer?

    Let us know in the comments below.  

  • How to Pay Off Debt on a Budget

    How to Pay Off Debt on a Budget

    In this post, we’ll learn how to pay off debt on a budget. In our initial series on debt, we first looked at some scary stats about how common debt is in society.

    We learned that 8 out of 10 people have some form of debt. We also learned that nearly half of credit card users carry a balance. Finally, we saw that consumer debt is a worldwide problem.

    By recognizing that debt is something that impacts nearly all of us, I hope that you stop feeling alone if your’e in debt. There’s no reason to be ashamed. You are not a bad person.

    If people were more willing to talk about money, you may not have had those feelings in the first place. You may have already learned how to pay off debt on a budget.

    Understanding how you got into debt is the first step in working your way out. That’s why we next looked at three big reasons why people are in debt.

    Of course, there are other explanations, but in my opinion, these three explanations sum it up:

    1. We can be careless with our money.
    2. We don’t plan ahead for emergencies.
    3. We try to keep up with the Kardashians.

    With these common causes in mind, we can now start focusing on how to pay off debt on a budget.

    These strategies can work whether you are trying to eliminate Good Debt or Bad Debt.

    In my experience, both Good Debt and Bad Debt can feel heavy. While Good Debt can help you achieve financial freedom, the debt will still hang over your head until it’s paid off.

    Before we get to my top 10 strategies to eliminate debt, let’s get one thing straightened out:

    If you’re looking for a magic wand to immediately erase all your debt, you’re in the wrong place.

    Paying off debt takes time. It requires patience and discipline. You may not notice much progress in the beginning, but you need to stick with it.

    It most likely took you years to get into debt, so be reasonable with your expectations of how long it will take to pay it off.

    My top 10 strategies for how to pay off debt on a budget.

    1. Write down your Tiara Goals.
    2. Create a Budget After Thinking so the debt stops growing.
    3. Prioritize Later Money funds for debt.
    4. Apply our Top 10 strategies for staying on budget.
    5. Talk to your people about paying down debt.
    6. Track your net worth and savings rate for small wins.
    7. Pick a strategy and stick with it: Debt Snowball v. Debt Avalanche.
    8. Think about loan consolidation.
    9. Get a side hustle.
    10. Don’t let yourself fall backwards.

    1. Write down your Tiara Goals.

    Have you ever asked yourself what you would do with financial freedom?

    I asked myself that powerful question on a beach years ago and came up with my Tiara Goals.

    Debt is a major obstacle on the way to financial freedom. To help you stay motivated to eliminate debt, write down your version of Tiara Goals. By reminding yourself what you’re actually striving for, you’re more likely to stay on track.

    Whenever we talk about good money habits, it always starts with establishing strong motivations. This is especially true when it comes to debt. There are too many temptations that can push us off track.

    When you’re faced with these inevitable temptations, take a look at your Tiara Goals. I keep my Tiara Goals in my notes section on my phone. I also have a picture on my phone of the original sheet of notebook paper I scribbled on.

    All it takes is a quick glance at my most important life values to overcome whatever temptation is in front of me.

    Getting out of debt is not easy. Make it easier by regularly reminding yourself what you would do with financial freedom.

    2. Create a Budget After Thinking so the debt stops growing.

    If you’re currently in debt, it’s crucial that you stop that debt from getting larger. Think about it. If you’re paying off $1,000 of credit card debt each month, but you’re still spending $1,200 more than you earn, your efforts will be for nothing.

    Your debt is growing faster than you’re paying it off. You’re not getting any closer to being debt-free.

    That’s why to eliminate debt, you need to first create a Budget After Thinking.

    Once you’ve stopped the disappearing dollars and learned where your money is going each month, you can make thoughtful decisions to pay off debt on a budget.

    Then, you can be confident that any money you allocate to debt will actually lower your debt balance.

    3. Prioritize Later Money funds to pay off debt.

    As we’ve discussed, the art of budgeting is to generate fuel for your Later Money goals. The more fuel you can generate each month, the faster you will achieve your personal finance goals.

    There are lots of options on what to do with your Later Money. For example, you can invest in real estate or the stock market.

    When you’re in debt, I recommend you prioritize using your Later Money to eliminate that debt. This is especially true if you have Bad Debt, like credit card debt. Your number one money focus needs to be to eliminate that debt.

    This is the key to learning how to pay off debt on a budget.

    There’s a good reason to focus on paying off your Bad Debt.

    The interest rate on Bad Debt is generally very high. The amount you pay in interest each month will be significantly greater than what you may reasonably expect to earn through investments.

    If you only have Good Debt, like student loan debt, you have some more flexibility in whether to focus on that debt or your other investment goals. This is because Good Debt generally carries lower interest rates, so your investment returns may match or even exceed what you’re paying in interest.

    In this scenario, I suggest that you consider splitting your Later Money between debt pay down, savings, and investments. This is what my wife and I are currently doing in 2025.

    Seeing your savings and investments grow while focusing on how to pay off debt on a budget can provide an emotional lift. Establishing good savings and investment habits now will also have longterm benefits that should survive your debt phase.

    4. Apply our Top 10 Strategies for staying on budget.

    Our Top 10 Strategies for staying on budget will help you generate more money to allocate to debt. These tips are crucial if you’re trying to learn how to pay off debt on a budget.

    For example, when you see something that you might want to buy, make a note in your phone instead of buying it right away. After a couple weeks, you probably won’t even want that thing anymore. Take that money you didn’t spend and put it towards your debt.

    As another example, how about playing The $500 Challenge Game? When you come in under budget that month, use the excess funds to pay down debt.

    When you have debt, applying our Top 10 strategies to staying on budget can teach you something powerful. You’ll see for yourself that the emotional high of paying down debt is better than the feeling you’d get from spending that money on things you don’t care about. It’s important not to ignore these emotional wins when learning how to pay off debt on a budget.

    5. Talk to your people about how to pay off debt on a budget.

    Stop me if you’ve heard this before:

    Why do we insist on struggling with our money choices alone instead of talking to the people we trust and love?

    Talking money is not taboo. That includes talking about our current money goals and money challenges. Of course, it includes talking about how to pay off debt on a budget.

    I’m currently focused on paying down HELOC debt, building up my emergency savings, and funding my kids’ 529 college savings plans.

    What are your current money priorities? If you don’t want to share with us, are you sharing with your friends or family?

    I struggled with debt when I began my career as a lawyer. For years, I kept that to myself. I wish I had been more open. I’ve recently learned that many of my friends were struggling in the same way.

    The problem was that none of us talked about it. I think about how much stress we could have saved each other if we were just willing to talk about money like we talked about everything else. Instead, we hid our truths from each other. Even worse, we likely enabled each other’s poor spending habits.

    I now know that it didn’t have to be that way. I would have been better off if I was open about it.This part still bothers me today: I also might have helped my friends facing the same challenges just by starting the conversation.

    6. Track your net worth and savings rate for small wins.

    Remember that your net worth grows when you reduce your liabilities, meaning debt. When we think of net worth, it’s common to focus on growing our assets. Don’t forget that reducing your debts has the same impact on your balance sheet.

    For example, when tracking your net worth, eliminating $1,000 in debt is the same as an investment that grows by $1,000.

    Even when you’re focused on how to pay off debt on a budget, tracking your net worth can be very motivating. Every payment you make to reduce that debt improves your net worth.

    This is especially helpful if you are focused on paying off student loans or paying down a mortgage. You may not have many appreciating assets, but you can still make a positive impact on your net worth by reducing your debt.

    The same logic applies to tracking your savings rate. Measure and feel good about each additional amount you dedicate to eliminating debt. The goal is to stay motivated while you pay off debt on a budget.

    7. Pick a strategy and stick with it: Debt Snowball v. Debt Avalanche.

    There are two common strategies to consider when you hope to pay off debt on a budget. These strategies are referred to as “Debt Snowball” and “Debt Avalanche.”

    Debt Snowball means paying down your smallest debt balance first, regardless of interest rate. When you’ve paid off that loan completely, you then move to the next smallest balance, again regardless of interest rate.

    Debt Snowball is ideal for people that are motivated by the emotional wins that come with eliminating a loan completely, even if it costs more money in interest in the long run.

    Debt Avalanche means you pay down the debt that has the highest interest rate first, regardless of the balance. Once that debt is gone, you move to the loan with the next highest interest rate.

    Debt Avalanche is for people who would prefer to pay less overall interest, even if it will take longer to pay off a single loan and receive the emotional win.

    A snowball has grown large due to the force with which it rolls, tumbling down a forested mountain during the snowy season, lifting small amounts of snow along its path, illustrating the preferred method for how to pay off debt on a budget.

    We’ll discuss the pros and cons of each strategy in a subsequent post. Some people will prefer the emotional wins of the Debt Snowball method, while others will prefer the mathematical advantage of the Debt Avalanche method.

    Personally, I use the Debt Snowball method.

    I value the emotional wins of eliminating a debt entirely, even if it ends up costing me more in the long run. I am currently applying the Debt Snowball method to pay off HELOC debt.

    I’ve experienced firsthand that our money choices have more to do with emotions than they do math. If you prefer to play it strictly by the numbers, I completely understand.

    The key is that whichever strategy you pick, stick with it. You’ll save yourself a lot of unnecessary mental gymnastics by choosing one approach and then moving on.

    One word of caution: whichever method you choose, be sure to always pay the minimum on all of your loans. Otherwise, you’ll be in violation of your loan terms and face devastating penalties.

    The idea with either of these methods is to allocate whatever funds remain to the single loan you have prioritized after paying the minimum on all loans first.

    8. Think about loan consolidation or balance transfers.

    Whether you have credit card debt, student loan debt, or even mortgage debt, you may have the option to consolidate each type of loan into a single loan. If you do your homework, you should end up with a lower overall interest rate and have only one loan payment to make each month.

    If you choose to go this route, make sure you fully understand the fine print involved.

    For example, if you’re thinking about consolidating your student loans, you’ll end up sacrificing certain loan forgiveness provisions that accompany federal loans.

    The same caveat applies when considering a credit card balance transfer. A balance transfer is when you move the balance from one credit card to a different credit card with a lower interest rate. Most major credit cards accept balance transfers from other banks’ credit cards.

    The main reason to consider a balance transfer is if the card you are transferring into carries a significantly lower interest rate than your current card. In some instances, you may even qualify for a promotional rate with no interest charged for a limited period of time.

    I used balance transfers when I was focused on eliminating credit card debt at the beginning of my career. I did my homework and found a card that was advertising 0% interest for 12 months with no balance transfer fees. That meant that for an entire year, I paid no interest. Every payment I made went directly to lowering my overall debt.

    If you’re considering a balance transfer, be mindful that there are usually upfront fees involved, usually around 3%. That fee may end up cancelling out any benefit from doing the transfer in the first place.

    9. Get a side hustle to help pay off debt on a budget.

    You’re not too busy or too important for a side hustle.

    At the end of the day, there are really only two ways to more quickly pay off debt on a budget: spend less money and/or make more money.

    We already talked about creating a Budget After Thinking to help on the spending side.

    If you really want to get rid of your debt faster, earning more money and the same time you’re spending less money is a dominate combination.

    If you take on a side hustle, you can use every dollar you earn to pay off debt. Since this is new money you’re earning, you shouldn’t need it to fund your Now Money or Life Money.

    Avoid the temptation of using that money on things you don’t really want anyways. Think about how much faster that debt will disappear if you’re able to throw additional money at it each month.

    If you’re not ready for a side hustle, the same logic applies anytime you earn a bonus or commission at your primary job. Put that money to good use by paying down your debt.

    10. Don’t let yourself fall backwards while you pay off debt on a budget.

    When you do succeed in eliminating a debt, don’t let yourself fall back into bad habits. It’s hard to pay off a debt. It takes time. It takes patience and discipline.

    Don’t let it all be for nothing.

    When you pay off a loan, celebrate that accomplishment!

    Be proud of yourself and let that good feeling motivate you to continue on your journey towards financial freedom.

    Before you know it, debt will be part of your past life. You can shift all your attention to the opportunities that comes next for you and your family.

    Let us know in the comments below:

    Have you used any of these strategies to pay off debt on a budget?

    What about any other strategies to pay off debt on a budget that have worked for you?

  • Money on My Mind: Always Working?

    Money on My Mind: Always Working?

    Simple question. Don’t lie to yourself.

    Do you work too much?

    I’m not asking if you work too hard.

    I mean too much, as in too many hours of your life dedicated to a job.

    I started thinking about this question after recently coming across a few surveys.

    Let’s talk it out. Let me know what you think in the comments below.

    I am shocked by these survey results.

    I’m not often surprised by survey results. This is one of the rare exceptions.

    According to a recent report from MyPerfectResume, 81% of workers worry they may lose their jobs in 2025.

    8 out of 10 people! Is it just me, or is that mind-boggling?

    On the flip side, only 4% of workers report no concerns about losing their jobs.

    These numbers are shocking to me, but maybe I shouldn’t be that surprised. As Yahoo Finance explains,

    Many large corporations have already announced or kicked off a round of layoffs, including Chevron, CNN, Estee Lauder, Meta, and Southwest Airlines. And that, of course, doesn’t count the thousands of workers terminated under Elon Musk’s campaign to reduce the federal workforce.

    My mind immediately jumps to a follow-up question:

    How many of those people worried about losing their jobs have an emergency savings account?

    Sadly, the answer is probably very few people have meaningful savings.

    Surveys like this one motivate me to continue bringing attention to core personal finance issues, like having adequate emergency savings. This is why I so strongly believe that talking about money is not taboo.

    Life is too short and too precious to be in a constant state of worry. Is there any sense worrying about something, like getting laid off, when you have practically no control over whether it happens or not?

    Instead of worrying about what we can’t control, I think it’s better to use our energy on what we can control, like saving up for emergencies.

    Hopefully, you’re not one of these people worried about losing your job. If you are, there’s no better time than right now to prioritize your savings.

    If the first survey shocked me, this one just makes me angry.

    According to this Pew Research Center study, 46% of US workers take less paid time-off than they’re offered.

    I need to say that again.

    Nearly half of US workers choose to work more days than they are required to!

    And, it gets worse if you’re a high earner or highly educated.

    According to the same study, the more money you earn, the less likely you are to take your full paid time-off.

    The more educated you are, the less likely you are to take your full paid time-off.

    The more senior you are, like being a manager vs. non-manager, the less likely you are to take your full paid time-off.

    If the first survey mentioned above surprised me, this one just makes me angry.

    Do you recognize a difference between working hard and always working?

    Don’t misunderstand why these results make me angry. It’s not about working hard vs. slacking off. It’s not about being a good employee vs. a bad employee. I am 100% in favor of people working hard and working with integrity to get the job done.

    My frustration is that somewhere along the way, “working hard” turned into “always working.”

    By the way, before you accuse me of being a slacker, I am no stranger to working hard.

    I work full-time as a lawyer, manage 11 rental properties, teach law school courses on Wednesdays and Sundays, and publish three blog posts per week. Still, none of these things are more important to me than spending quality time with my family.

    Years ago, I first read Tim Ferris’ game-changing book, The 4-Hour Workweek. Ferris described how his small business took off as soon as he started doing less, not more. He empowered his staff and stopped himself from getting in the way. Not only did his company thrive, he had more time available to pursue what really mattered in his life.

    Since writing The 4-Hour Workweek, Ferris has become one of the most influential thought leaders around. To learn more from Ferris, visit his website here.

    Why do you work so much?

    If you’re one of these people choosing to work more hours instead of taking your earned vacation time, have you ever asked yourself why?

    Keep in mind, these are days off that your company has already agreed to give you. You earned them. Why are you not taking them?

    Are you worried about getting fired? Passed up for a promotion? Is your self-worth tied to how many hours per week you work?

    Years from now, when your grandkids are huddled up for story time, do you plan on telling them how much you worked and how many life experiences you skipped out on?

    These are hard questions to truthfully answer. If you’re being honest with yourself, you may start thinking about another set of questions:

    Is this job the right job for me? Do I want to spend my life stressed from working too much? What would be a better use of my working hours so I can spend more time doing the things that I love with the people that I love?

    I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about these questions. I’ve realized that I’ll never understand what the point is of working so much at the cost of spending time with the things and people you love.

    Maybe I’m the weird one. But, I don’t think I am. Unfortunately, the data backs me up and confirms that working too much can have series consequences.

    Fortunately, we can learn from strategies geared towards retirees. Let me explain.

    Apply lessons for retirees to your life today.

    Writing for BBC Science Focus Magazine, Hayley Bennett shares 5 expert tips for a healthy post-work life.

    The tips include finding a purpose, strengthening your body, and rebuilding your brain.

    Woman on beach in summer thinking about spending more time during her working years living with purpose and focused on health as learned on Think and Talk Money.

    When I came across this story, I immediately thought that we shouldn’t wait for retirement to do these things. This is solid advice for all of us, at any stage in our lives.

    Do you know what sounds pretty great to me?

    A life filled with purpose sounds pretty great. The same goes for being fit and smart.

    The challenge is that work often gets in the way.

    When we let this happen, the consequences can be catastrophic.

    As just one example, lawyers as a profession have long struggled with mental health issues. I first learned about these challenges during law school orientation. Today, I see it in practice. Being a lawyer is a hard way to make a living. When you work as a lawyer, the hours are intense and stress levels are consistently high.

    In 2023, the Washington Post analyzed data from the U.S. Bureau of Labor to determine what the most stressful jobs are. The study confirmed that lawyers are the most stressed.

    Of course, lawyers are not alone in struggling in this regard due to long, stressful hours. The same study showed that people working in the finance and insurance industries were right up there with lawyers as being highly stressed.

    Anecdotally, I’ve personally talked to people recently in a wide variety of other fields, like consultants and small business owners, who are frustrated for the same reasons.

    The point is, regardless of industry, many of us struggle with work stress.

    What can we do about it?

    That’s a complicated question with many possible answers. For starters, I firmly believe that by building strong personal finance habits, we can create more opportunities to find purpose and practice good health.

    I recommend you think back to our conversations about Parachute Money and why you should want to be good with money. When you’ve made thoughtful money choices, you can choose to live a life right now on your terms rather than waiting until retirement.

    I agree with what you’re probably thinking. These are not easy or fun topics to think about. However, in my opinion, it’s much worse to let life go by while failing to take responsibility.

    Am I wrong about people working too much?

    Maybe I’m wrong about people working too much?

    I don’t think I am.

    The data paints a very sad picture for lawyers, and I have to believe anyone else working long and hard hours. If you have similar data about your profession, please share it with us. I hope I’m wrong about what that data will show, but I fear I’m right.

    As always, let us know what you think in the comments below.

    And, thank you for continuing to share stories you’ve come across that would be good to discuss here.

  • How to Responsibly Use Good Debt

    How to Responsibly Use Good Debt

    There may not be a more polarizing debate in personal finance than the concept of Good Debt vs. Bad Debt.

    “Good Debt” generally means loans used to acquire income generating assets, like rental properties or businesses.

    “Bad Debt” generally refers to consumer debt, which is personal debt owed because of buying things for personal or household use. For most people, this simply means credit card debt.

    Two absolute giants in the field, Robert Kiyosaki (of Rich Dad Poor Dad fame) and Dave Ramsey (maybe the most well known personal finance expert in the world), take opposite viewpoints.

    If you’d like to learn more about Kiyosaki, check out his website here. For more on Ramsey, click here.

    Before addressing their different opinions, it’s important to highlight that both Kiyosaki and Ramsey agree on a critical point:

    All consumer debt is bad.

    You’d be hard-pressed to find any personal finance expert who says that credit card debt is OK. I’d be concerned if you found anyone at all, expert or not, who seriously took the position that credit card debt is OK.

    We’ve talked about how this type of debt is scary and can drag down your finances. We also explored the three big reasons why people end up with credit card debt. The bottom line is you’ll never be truly financially free if you’re burdened by debt.

    A quick side note: There is some difference in opinion as to what else besides credit card debt qualifies as consumer debt. For example, is your primary home mortgage considered consumer debt? What about your student loan debt? I’ll give you my take below.

    Now, let’s take a look at how each Kiyosaki and Ramsey differ on Good Debt v. Bad Debt.

    Kiyosaki believes in the power of Good Debt.

    Kiyosaki argues that Good Debt is a powerful tool to generate consistent cash flow from investments. Kiyosaki defines Good Debt as debt that is used to buy assets like real estate or businesses that generate income.

    As long as the debt leads to positive income, it’s considered Good Debt. For example, Good Debt would include taking out a mortgage to buy a cash flowing rental property.

    Kiyosaki suggests that Good Debt can be responsibly used to quickly acquire more assets, even if the debt is considered a liability.

    To better understand the difference between assets and liabilities, check out our post on net worth.

    In Rich Dad Poor Dad, Kiyosaki discusses in detail how investors grow their wealth through the responsible use of Good Debt.

    Ramsey believes all debt is Bad Debt.

    Ramsey could not disagree more with Kiyosaki.

    If it were up to Ramsey, there would be no distinction between “Good Debt” and “Bad Debt.” All debt is bad and carries risks that will weigh on your emotions and drag down your net worth.

    Ramsey is adamant that debt should not be used as a tool to build wealth. He contends that a person’s income is the best way to consistently build wealth.

    In his bestselling book, The Total Money Makeover, Ramsey walks you through how to build wealth without relying on debt.

    So, where do I come out on the Good Debt v. Bad Debt debate?

    Kiyosaki and Ramsey are personal finance legends. There’s no right or wrong in this debate. I appreciate each of their viewpoints.

    Ultimately, what side of the debate am I on?

    I’m on Team Kiyosaki.

    When you responsibly use Good Debt, you can more quickly create income streams to accelerate your journey towards Parachute Money. However, if you’re struggling with consumer debt, taking on any additional debt, even Good Debt, is a bad idea.

    Like other real estate investors, my wife and I have experienced firsthand the power of Good Debt. In seven years, we have acquired four cash flowing rental properties (three in Chicago, one in Colorado) that add extra income to our personal balance sheet each month. Without that income coming in, our financial picture would look completely different.

    On top of that, we have benefited from appreciation with each of our properties, further increasing our net worth. Of course, appreciation is largely out of anyone’s control. Market conditions have been very favorable for us.

    Some people may condescendingly say that we’re just lucky. As bestselling author and thought leader Mel Robbins would say, “Let them think that!”

    Of course we’ve been lucky!

    That doesn’t change the fact that we acted on opportunities when others only talked. We lived in small apartments for six years with a growing family. We responded to tenants whether we were on vacation or it was the middle of the night. Above all else, we stayed disciplined, focused on our goals, and paid the bills even when money was tight.

    For these and so many other reasons, I believe in the responsible use of Good Debt to acquire cash flowing assets.

    Just because we’ve taken on debt doesn’t mean we don’t worry about it.

    All that said, Ramsey’s voice still rings in my ears when it comes to debt. Up to this point in our lives, my wife and I are comfortable with the Good Debt we’ve taken on to build our portfolio. Even so, we frequently think about Ramsey’s point of view and the valid debt risks he highlights.

    Even with the extra rental income coming in, we still feel the heavy burden of mortgage debt. That’s why our goal for 2025 is to prioritize eliminating as much mortgage debt as possible. While we are comfortable with a certain level of debt, we don’t ever want to be reckless.

    If you’re thinking about using debt to acquire assets, don’t ever ignore the heavy emotional toll that debt will have on you. Just as importantly, if you’ve struggled with debt in the past, be careful about going down that road again.

    It’s easy to get blinded by the potential cashflow of an investment while ignoring the accompanying debt. Long before you ever sign the loan documents, make sure you’ve done your homework and thought hard about what it’ll take to pay that loan off.

    What about primary residence mortgage debt and student loans?

    I mentioned that I would share my perspective on whether debt to buy a primary residence or student loan debt is Good Debt.

    I think both should absolutely be considered Good Debt.

    This is one area where Kiyosaki and I don’t agree.

    Why I consider a primary home mortgage Good Debt.

    Kiyosaki favors using Good Debt to buy assets, meaning investments that put money in your pocket. A primary home does not put money in your pocket, so Kiyosaki would not recommend using debt for this purchase.

    He’s not alone in this viewpoint. Many smart people think it’s financially foolish to buy a primary residence instead of renting. For an in-depth analysis on the question of buying vs. renting, check out this video from Khan Academy.

    I don’t agree with this viewpoint. For most of us, our primary residence is the best way to build generational wealth for our families. This is not my personal strategy for building wealth. That said, I understand that this strategy is how most of us do build wealth.

    Besides just wealth building, I appreciate more than ever how owning a home can be emotionally beneficial. Since we moved to our longterm home, I’ve already experienced the psychological benefits of establishing roots and feeling connected to a community. After bouncing around apartments in Chicago for nearly 20 years, I can tell you that it feels good having a permanent home.

    So, I consider a primary home mortgage Good Debt. For similar reasons, unlike Kiyosaki, I recommend including your primary residence in your net worth.

    Why I consider student loans Good Debt.

    I also disagree with Kiyosaki on whether student loans count as Good Debt.

    I don’t want to put words in Kiyosaki’s mouth, but his perspective seems mostly shaped by how he feels about the modern educational system in this country.

    How exactly does he feel about our education system?

    He… hates it.

    All things considered, it makes perfect sense that he thinks student debt is Bad Debt.

    I don’t agree. I’m grateful for my education through law school. I learned how to think and solve problems. I learned how to challenge myself and do hard things. I think this is true for anyone that goes to school and takes it somewhat seriously.

    I’m not discounting Kiyosaki’s point that maybe the system needs fixing. Regardless, I believe that education opens doors, whether that’s through connections made along the way or licenses earned (like the license to practice law).

    From my perspective, debt incurred to pay for that experience and training is well worth it.

    If that wasn’t enough, the data shows highly educated people earn more money. In fact, men with graduate degrees earn $1.5 million more over a lifetime than those with only high school degrees. That’s another reason why I consider an investment in yourself through student loans Good Debt.

    Are you Team Kiyosaki or Team Ramsey?

    Maybe you feel there is such a thing as Good Debt. Maybe not. Either perspective is completely valid.

    In the end, can we at least all agree that credit card debt is always bad debt?

    Are you Team Kiyosaki or Team Ramsey?

    Let us know in the comments below.

  • Three Big Reasons Why You’re in Debt

    Three Big Reasons Why You’re in Debt

    “Live below your means.”

    “Money doesn’t grow on trees.”

    “Don’t break the bank.”

    We’ve all heard these common money phrases. If you were to ask someone older than you for one piece of personal finance advice, I’m betting you’ll hear one of these lessons. Let me know if I’m right about that in the comments below.

    There’s a reason these phrases are so common. They’re simple and easily reflect some of our core personal finance principles. In fact, we’ve covered these concepts in detail in earlier posts:

    Like many personal finance concepts, it’s not too challenging to understand the meaning of these phrases.

    Most of us understand that it makes sense to spend less money that we earn, right?

    How many of us remember rolling our eyes as kids after our parents wouldn’t buy something we wanted because “money doesn’t grow on trees”?

    Does anyone truly disagree with these lessons? If so, I’d be very appreciative to hear your perspective in the comments below.

    Assuming we’re in relative agreement on these philosophies… what am I getting at?

    I’ll answer that with a question of my own:

    Why is it that we can all agree with these core personal finance lessons and at the same time choose to ignore them?

    For example, we intuitively know that we should live below our means, but nearly half of us carry a credit card balance.

    On top of that, hardly any of us are completely satisfied with our savings.

    It’s not that we want to have high debt and low savings. So why is this the reality for so many of us?

    I have 3 main theories why we fall into debt.

    There are countless theories on why people end up in debt. I have three primary theories. Looking at each of these explanations can help us understand and avoid common pitfalls that lead us into debt.

    1. We fall into debt because we are simply careless.

    When I struggled with debt at the beginning of my career, it was basic carelessness.

    I didn’t have any idea how to budget or make intentional choices with my money. I had never thought about why or how to be good with money.

    Like many people, I failed to create a budget and assumed that my W-2 income was plenty. I ignored emergency savings and never even thought about creating Parachute Money.

    The saddest part is that I didn’t even realize that I was slipping backwards. I had no idea because I didn’t track my net worth or savings rate. I worked hard all year long and just hoped things would work out.

    By the way, if this sounds familiar, you should know by now I’m not judging anyone. I’ve been very open about my money mistakes. We all deserve a chance to learn about and talk about strong personal finance habits.

    That’s why I’m on a mission to flip the script: talking money is not taboo.

    2. We don’t plan ahead for emergencies.

    So, being careless with money is one common reason people fall into debt. Another common reason is that bad things happen in life.

    This might include medical emergencies, home repairs or car troubles. It’s not our fault that these things happen. But, it is our fault if we’re not prepared in advance. 

    While these events are unfortunate, and maybe even tragic, they are not unexpected. We all need to expect that bad things will happen.

    Preparing for the unexpected is part of every solid organization’s planning. In government, planning ahead means having a “rainy day fund.”

    When managing properties, planning ahead for big repairs means having a “Capital Expenditures” or “Cap Ex” fund. For our personal finances, planning ahead means having an emergency fund.

    Whether it’s government, business, or personal finance, the goal is to have options other than taking on debt to get through challenging circumstances.

    3. Blame the Kardashians.

    Besides carelessness and emergencies, there’s another powerful force that contributes to rising debt levels across the world. This force is nearly impossible to ignore. It’s become a part of our daily lives, whether we want to admit it or not. 

    What is this powerful force that contributes to our rising debt levels?

    The Kardashians.

    OK, not just the Kardashians, but they’re kind of the mascots.

    The era of social media and on-demand entertainment has made it harder than ever to avoid temptation. It’s everywhere we look.

    Blaming the Kardashians realtes to another timeless, common money phrase: “Keeping up with the Joneses.”

    The Kardashians are the modern day Joneses.

    Once upon a time, “the Joneses” represented your neighbors, people you could observe from a distance on a regular basis. The idea behind the phrase is that you can see what your neighbors are spending money on and are either consciously or subconsciously tempted to do the same.

    If your neighbors buy a new car, you buy a new car to keep pace. If your neighbors vacation in Australia, you research diving tours at The Great Barrier Reef. When you notice your neighbors hosting a backyard BBQ party with lots of happy looking people, you decide to host a party the next weekend.

    As humans, it can be difficult to ignore the temptation to keep up with our neighbors. Whether we like it or not, we are concerned with our social status. Part of our self-worth gets tied to comparing ourselves to others.

    Who better to measure up against than the people in our neighborhood who we probably have a lot in common with?

    This same idea is oftentimes compounded in the professional setting. It is not uncommon to compare ourselves in the same way to our colleagues at the office.

    Some professions heighten the pressure to keep up. Have you ever noticed that real estate agents seem to always drive nice cars? Or, big city lawyers wear fancy suits? It’s easy to get caught up in expensive tastes when you’re expected to fit in.

    One of my favorite personal finance books, The Millionaire Next Door, discusses this concept in detail. I highly recommend you read this book if you are struggling with comparing yourself to others.

    What does this all have to do with the Kardashians?

    In today’s world dominated by social media and the internet, we’re no longer influenced just by our neighbors or colleagues. We’re now influenced by people throughout the world. That could mean friends or complete strangers.

    Instead of just learning your neighbors went on vacation, now you know when anyone in your circle is on a trip. At any moment, you may be on the train in 12 degree weather heading to work. One look at your phone and you’ll see plenty of wonderful pictures of people doing cool things. It’s hard to not want that for yourself.

    The byproduct of social media and the internet is the never ending temptation to spend money. Even if that means spending money we don’t have. That’s a powerful force pushing us deeper into debt.

    I am fighting this temptation in my life right now. Having moved to a new home not long ago, there are so many things we want to buy and projects we want to do. I need to constantly remind myself to slow down so I don’t again fall victim to consumer debt.

    So, what’s the solution? 

    Deactivate social media? Cancel the internet?

    Nah. If you did that, you’d miss out on epic Instagram reels like this one where I share my top five favorite personal finance books.

    Instead, the first part of the solution is to recognize when you’re making careless money decisions based on what you think other people are doing.

    Making money decisions based off of your neighbors, let alone the Kardashians, is the fast road to debt. You have no idea why or how another person is spending money. For all you know, it’s all for show and that person is barely getting by.

    Do you really want to blindly follow this person’s choices? Wouldn’t it be better to confer with people you trust to help you think through money decisions? 

    The second part of the solution is to recognize that everywhere you look, companies are clamoring for your dollars.

    Not an exaggeration: nearly $2 Trillion (with a ‘T’) of marketing dollars are spent worldwide each year with one goal in mind: to separate you from your money.

    Digital Marketing Technology Solution for Online Business Concept - Graphic interface showing analytic diagram of online market promotion strategy on digital advertising platform via social media, leading to us spending more money and sinking into debt as learned on Think and Talk Money.

    If you let that reality sink in, you’ll hopefully pause the next time you’re about to spend money on something you don’t actually care about.

    This is where we circle back to money mindset.

    To counteract social media and mass marketing, you need to have a competing force in your life that’s strong enough to overcome all the noise.

    I’m referring to your ultimate goals in life. I mean the reasons you wake up every morning to go to a job or stay up late to finish a project.

    Why are you working so hard?

    When you can answer that question, you’ll know what your ultimate goals are in life. With those goals in the forefront of your mind, it’s much easier to make consistent, intentional money decisions. 

    Most importantly, you’ll stay on budget and avoid sinking into debt.

    You’ll also be much happier when you stop worrying about what random strangers are spending money on.