In Part 1 of our series on budgeting, we learned that the art of budgeting is having a plan for your next dollar before you earn it. That way, you avoid having disappearing dollars. It’s not a good feeling to work hard all month and then realize you have nothing to show for it.
We also learned the three steps to get started with a realistic budget based off your current personal situation:
- Step 1: Track your spending for at least 3 months.
- Step 2: Separate your spending into 3 main categories.
- Step 3: Make adjustments so your spending better aligns with your true motivations and desires in life.
Here, in Part 2 of our series on budgeting, we’ll use a real life example to work through the budgeting process together. Through this example, you’ll see how even seemingly minor adjustments can make a big impact to your budget.
In Part 3, we’ll take a deep dive into my top 10 strategies for making thoughtful adjustments to our budgets so we can add more fuel to our financial and life goals.
Before we get ahead of ourselves, let’s meet a real life, really lost, boy.
Learning from a real life, really lost, boy.
In today’s budgeting example, we’ll look at real numbers from a real life, really lost, boy: 26-year-old Me. Remember when I told you I started a money journal in 2010? The dollar amounts below are what my actual income and spending looked like back then, adjusted for today’s dollars and rounded for easier math.
For some context, I was 26-years-old, living by myself in Chicago (no dependents, no pets), and working as a slasher. Not a joke, that was my actual job title. I worked for a judge with the Appellate Court of Illinois, and as the junior member of the team, my responsibilities included lawyer duties and secretarial duties. I was a judicial law clerk “slash” secretary. Hence, slasher. Lawyers are funny, huh?
In today’s dollars, I earned an annual salary of $90,000.00. That means I earned $7,500.00 per month. We did not have bonuses at the courthouse, so the $90,000.00 salary was my full compensation.
How to benefit from this budgeting example.
The benefit of going through an example like this is not to compare your situation to mine. Your income might be much higher or much lower. Same with your expenses. Instead of the numbers, focus on the thought process so you can start to think about adjustments that suit your current life.
Below, you’ll see charts showing that I completed each of our three budgeting steps:
- Step 1: I tracked my spending for 3 months and reflected the average monthly amount for each expenditure in the column labeled “Baseline Budget.”
- Step 2: I created a separate chart for each of the three main categories: Now Money, Life Money, and Later Money.
- Step 3: I made thoughtful adjustments to better align my spending with my true motivations in life. I illustrated my decisions in the third column labeled “Budget After Thinking.”
Now Money
Now Money is what you need to pay for basic life expenses. These are expenses that you can’t avoid and should be relatively fixed each month. If you have expenses for kids, pets, and other fixed life expenses, be sure to include them in your Now Money category.
| Now Money | Baseline Budget | Budget After Thinking |
|---|---|---|
| Apartment rent | $2,200 | $2,200 |
| Renter’s Insurance | $20 | $20 |
| Parking spot | $430 | $0 |
| Gas for car | $40 | $40 |
| Car Insurance | $50 | $30 |
| Car Maintenance | $150 | $150 |
| Utilities | $120 | $120 |
| Internet | $60 | $30 |
| Cell Phone | $55 | $35 |
| Groceries | $300 | $240 |
| Personal upkeep(wardrobe, haircuts, etc.) | $100 | $75 |
| Gym Membership | $360 | $360 |
| Budget Busters | $300 | $300 |
| Now Money Total | $4,185 | $3,600 |
What I learned tracking Now Money.
Now Money is pretty easy to track. There is not a whole lot of variance from month to month.
You’ll notice immediately that I had one major expenditure that needed immediate adjustment. That parking spot for $430? Definitely did not need that. I lived 2 miles from work in one of the best cities for public transportation in the country. It was frustrating at times to look for street parking, but I didn’t use my car enough to justify the cost of a parking spot.
The other adjustments resulted in more minor savings, but don’t ignore these. Each adjustment took relatively no effort to make, just a little bit of thought beforehand. When I say relatively no effort, I mean three phone calls and three reductions for car insurance, internet, and cell phone. That’s $70 saved per month, or $840 saved per year, for about 30 minutes of effort.
Otherwise, I decided to show a bit more restraint when grocery shopping and found a cheaper place to get my haircut.
All told, I reduced my Now Money Budget After Thinking by $585 per month with a little bit of thought and hardly any effort. That’s $7,020 per year of fuel for my Later Money.
Life Money
Life Money is what you spend every month on things and experiences in life that you love.
| Life Money | Baseline Budget | Budget After Thinking |
|---|---|---|
| Social Life (dining out, concerts, ball games, etc.) | $800 | $700 |
| Purchases (books, fun clothes, gifts, etc.) | $200 | $150 |
| Travel | $500/mo ($6,000/yr) | $400 |
| Cubs Season Tickets | $400/mo ($4,800/yr) | $400 |
| Budget Busters | $200 | $200 |
| Life Money Total | $2,100 | $1,850 |
What I learned tracking Life Money.
When you’re reviewing your Life Money expenses, don’t be overly aggressive in cutting here. These are the things and experiences that make your life enjoyable. Even modest adjustments can make a big difference in the long run.
In Part 3 of our series on budgeting, I’ll show you my favorite strategies for adjusting your Life Money without sacrificing the things and experiences you love.
As we saw with Now Money, with some thought and very little effort, I reduced my Life Money Budget After Thinking by $250 per month. That’s another $3,000 of fuel for my Later Money.
Some bonus tips for tracking Life Money
Life Money is the most annoying category to accurately track. These expenses vary month-to-month. You may buy concert tickets or have a trip planned some months, but not every month. So, how do we get an accurate picture of our Life Money?
This is why I recommend you track your spending for at least three months. You’ll get a more accurate picture because you can average your Life Money spending over those 3 months and balance out any inconsistencies. Of course, if you have the patience to track your spending for even longer, you’ll get an even more accurate picture.
Fortunately, it is easier to track our spending today with the availability of apps and online banking platforms that can automatically track your spending. We’ll review some of these tracking options in a future post.
Keep it simple when tracking your Life Money.
I highly recommend you keep it simple when tracking your Life Money. Many of my students give up on budgeting because they make this category more complicated than it needs to be. I really struggled with this at first because I was so concerned about doing it right.
What I learned was that it doesn’t matter. If you go to happy hour with friends, don’t agonize over whether that goes into your “Dining Out” category or your “Drinks” category? It doesn’t matter. Make it easy on yourself. Have one category called “Social Life” and move on.
Don’t forget that the point of budgeting is to learn your current habits so that you can make thoughtful adjustments. Don’t let yourself become so obsessed with the details that you get stressed and give up on budgeting.
Break down large, annual expenses on a monthly basis.
One last tip, when you have large expenses, like season tickets or a big vacation, it’s helpful to break down those expenses on a monthly basis. That way, you can see how much those individual purchases are impacting your overall monthly goals.
I’m not suggesting you actually pay for that trip over 12 months (like on a credit card), or that you can only spend that much on travel in a certain month. Think of it this way: you likely will not take a trip every month of the year.
Using my Budget After Thinking figures, let’s say I did not take a trip in January, February or March. That would mean that for my planned April trip, I now have $1,600 available that I can use, assuming you didn’t let those dollars disappear. In Part 3, we’ll talk about what to do with the money you didn’t spend in the first three months to make sure they don’t disappear when April rolls around.
Later Money
Later Money is what you are saving, investing, or using to pay off debt. This is the fuel for your most important goals.
| Later Money | Baseline Budget | Budget After Thinking |
|---|---|---|
| Student Loans | $1,100 | $1,100 |
| Credit Card Debt | $150 | $900 |
| Savings | $0 | $50 |
| Pretax Retirement (401k) | $300* | $300* |
| Other Investments | $0 | $0 |
| Total Later Money | $1,250 | $2,050 |
What I learned tracking Later Money.
This is where all your efforts in tracking your spending and making thoughtful adjustments starts to pay off, IF you have a plan for your next dollar before you earn it.
In my baseline budget, I was very good about paying my student loan debt in full every month. I knew enough not to mess with student loans. The consequence was my credit card bills were the last to get paid each month. This usually meant only paying the required minimum since I had run out of money by this point. It also meant no money for savings or investments.
In my Later Money Budget After Thinking, because of the thoughtful choices I made with my Now Money and Life Money, I created $800 of fuel.
With that fuel, I had committed myself to paying off my credit card debt as quickly as possible. I also wanted to start the habit of saving each month. So, I added $750 of fuel to my credit card bills and $50 of fuel to my savings. I stayed true to my plan and put that money to work. Otherwise, what was the point of budgeting?
Some bonus tips for tracking Later Money.
When I run through this exercise with my students, I usually get a question along the lines of, “I’m aiming to save 20% of my income each month. Should I count the pretax money I’m saving for retirement towards that 20%?”
It’s a sneaky question. Think about it: the rest of your budget relates to your take-home paycheck, meaning your after-tax money that hits your checking account. Your retirement savings are typically withdrawn from your paycheck before taxes and before you ever see the money.
How to account for your pretax retirement savings can be another one of those tricky areas when you start budgeting. In my example, you may have noticed that I contributed $300 of pretax money through my employer’s retirement plan, but I did not count that money in my budget calculations.
Should you count that money if you’re aiming to save a certain percentage each month? Setting aside that this question demonstrates how a standardized framework, like 50-30-20, can be very confusing…
Yes! Give yourself credit where credit is due! Contributing to your retirement plan is a good choice. If you are aiming to save 5% or 10% or 20% each month in Later Money, count your pretax money towards that goal.
Make budgeting as easy as possible for yourself.
That said, I want to encourage you to make budgeting as easy as possible for yourself so you stick with it. In my example, I excluded the $300 pretax retirement savings because I am creating a plan for the $7,500.00 that hit my checking account each month. These are the dollars in jeopardy of disappearing.
The entire point of your budget is to create a plan for your next dollar before you earn it. You already wisely chose to save your pretax dollars by enrolling in your employer’s retirement plan. Those dollars are already accounted for and working for you. They are not disappearing dollars. You did your job!
Like in my example above, you can exclude the amount you’re saving for retirement in pretax dollars from your budget calculations. Feel good knowing that you’re saving that money. It’s icing on the cake. No need to worry about it when budgeting.
The real life, really lost, boy was starting to figure it out.
Let’s look at the complete picture before and after I started the budgeting process:
| Baseline Budget | Budget After Thinking | |
|---|---|---|
| Now Money | $4,185 | $3,600 |
| Life Money | $2,100 | $1,850 |
| Later Money | $1,250 | $2,050 |
| Total | $7,535* | $7,500 |
With some thought and relatively little effort, I was able to stop the disappearing dollars and start making progress towards my ultimate life goals.
In my baseline budget, I was spending more than I earned each month. That meant I had no money to pay my credit card bills, which kept getting bigger because I kept spending. In my Budget After Thinking, I broke my habit of living above my means and generated $9,600 of fuel in one year for my Later Money goals.
Taking these first steps may seem like minor steps on the way to financial independence, but they were the most important steps I ever took on my personal financial journey.
The real life, really lost, boy was starting to figure it out. The spark was lit. There was no turning back.
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