Tag: budgeting

  • When to Think Cash Instead of Credit

    When to Think Cash Instead of Credit

    Do you use credit cards for every purchase?

    If you would have asked me this a couple years ago, the answer would have been “100% yes.”

    I’ve long been a big fan of using credit cards to earn rewards points and to help track my spending. As long as you pay your credit card bills on-time and in-full every month, credit card rewards can be quite valuable.

    The best vacations I’ve ever had were paid for using points instead of cash. 

    My wife and I have taken some amazing vacations that we would have never gone on if we had to pay in cash.

    We used points to fly first class to Florence for our honeymoon. We’ve used points to stay at luxury hotels in Paris, Barcelona, and Santorini that normally charge more than a thousand dollars a night.

    When my wife and I were still dating, we went to New York for a wedding. We got out there two nights early, and I used points to book us a room at the Waldorf Astoria. This was back in my real life, really lost boy days when I didn’t have any spare cash for something like this.

    My wife and I had a great time at the Waldorf before heading out to Long Island for the wedding.

    I may have forgotten to tell my wife that in Long Island, we’d be sharing a room with two (turned out to be three) of my buddies. I didn’t have any points left for this hotel. Oops.

    She was a good sport. Not even the surprise ice storm from the groom in the middle of the night bothered her. She was a keeper.

    I could go on and on. The point is there was a long period of time where all of our vacations were paid for using points instead of cash.

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    Using points also helped me stay on budget and build my net worth. 

    Besides the incredible memories, the other major benefit to using points was that we could save more money every year. We could then use those savings to fuel our Later Money goals, like investing in real estate.

    That meant our net worth grew in the background while we were out having these amazing experiences.

    I also have long been a fan of using credit cards to help me stay on budget. With credit cards, I can quickly track my spending online during the month to see if I’m on pace for a good month.

    If I notice that I’ve overspent, I can slow down my spending to get back on track.

    Between the rewards points and the ability to track my spending, I still am a big fan of using credit cards for most everyday purchases.

    When used responsibly, meaning paying your credit card bill in full and on-time every month, credit cards can be part of a healthy financial life.

    That said, nowadays, I’ve started using cash more frequently. 

    I’ve started using cash more often these days. 

    I still use credit cards more than cash, but I’m starting to use cash more often than I used to.

    There are a couple main reasons for this.

    I use cash for the convenience for smaller transactions.

    I now use cash regularly for smaller or quicker transactions, like going to the farmer’s market, grabbing ice cream for the kids, or paying for taxis.

    Yes, I still take taxis. I work as a mesothelioma attorney in downtown Chicago near the courthouse. Taxis are plentiful and a lot of times quicker and cheaper than ride share companies.

    And, there are ATM’s on just about every corner near my office in Chicago, so it’s not inconvenient to keep cash on hand.

    For these types of transactions, I value the convenience of paying with cash more than the small amount of credit card points I would earn.

    I also like to pay cash to help out these types of small businesses because they seem to generally prefer being paid in cash. I leave whatever change I’m owed as a tip.

    Also, I’m no longer worried about precisely tracking my cash spending in my Budget After Thinking.

    Instead, I simply account for a few hundred dollars of spending using cash each month. I generally know what types of things I’m spending cash on, so I don’t worry about tracking each expenditure specifically.

    Besides convenience, there’s another reason I use cash more frequently now. 

    Besides convenience, I’ve started to use cash regularly for another reason.

    It’s not that the rewards have changed very much. Or, that I no longer like tracking my spending.

    It’s for a different, and somewhat disappointing, reason:

    More and more service providers, retailers, and restaurants are charging fees to use credit cards. These fees can be as high as 4% of the purchase price.

    These additional fees are sometimes referred to as “surcharges” or “processing fees.”

    Be warned, sometimes these fees are cloaked as “discounts for cash payments.” Don’t be fooled. This is just a sneaky way to say you will be penalized for using a credit card.

    Why do businesses charge processing fees?

    For a little bit of context, credit card companies make money by charging businesses a “merchant fee” or “interchange free” whenever customers pay with a credit card.

    Most businesses pay these merchant fees. That’s because there are plenty of incentives for businesses to accept credit cards. 

    For one, many customers prefer to pay with credit cards, like me. Businesses typically don’t want to lose out on these customers who prefer to pay with credit cards.

    For another, businesses are well aware of the fact that people tend to spend more money when using credit cards instead of cash. Obviously, it’s good for business when people spend more.

    There are certainly other incentives, as well. The point is that businesses have long paid these merchant fees in exchange for benefits provided by credit card companies.

    In recent years, more and more businesses have decided to pass these fees onto customers.

    Businesses, especially smaller businesses, commonly point to the past few years of surging inflation for why they need to pass these processing fees onto customers.

    Have you also noticed these fees popping up seemingly everywhere these days?

    As a consumer, whether we like it or not, these processing fees seem to be sticking around.

    So, what can we do about it?

    We can choose to use cash instead of credit, or we can choose to not spend our money at that business.

    Let’s look at an example to help you make that decision for yourself.

    Who really cares about a small processing fee anyways?  

    A processing fee of 4% may or may not sound like a lot to you. 

    Let’s look at an example to put some real numbers on it. 

    Let’s assume you’re going to buy a new TV that costs $1,000.00 (all taxes included) from a reputable store. A 4% processing fee on the purchase of a $1,000.00 TV means adding $40 to the price of that TV.

    That TV now costs you $1,040.00 with the processing fee.

    That’s a $40 penalty simply for using a credit card instead of cash. That’s a penalty that the next customer paying in cash doesn’t have to pay for the exact same TV. 

    Keep in mind this is a $40 penalty charged on just this one purchase. Consider all the other purchases you make with a credit card and what those total penalties could add up to.

    Since you really shouldn’t be buying that TV unless you have the cash available to pay for it, is there any good reason to willingly pay a $40 penalty?

    We’re assuming you’re shopping at a reputable store, so you shouldn’t have to worry about purchase protection.

    So, that really leaves only one potential benefit to using a credit card for this purchase.

    What about the points you can earn?

    Let’s play that out so you can decide for yourself.

    Aren’t points worth more than whatever the processing fee is?

    Let’s continue our same example of purchasing the TV for $1,000. 

    Including the 4% fee, the TV costs $1,040.00.

    Let’s assume you buy this TV using the Chase Freedom Unlimited, which is the actual card I would use if I were making this purchase. 

    The Chase Freedom Unlimited offers 1.5 points per dollar spent. That means this TV purchase of $1,040.00 would earn you 1,560 points (1040 x 1.5 =1,560). 

    Next, let’s look at my favorite website for valuing rewards points, The Points Guy. Currently, The Points Guy values each Chase Ultimate Reward point at 2.05 cents.

    So, 1,560 points, valued at 2.05 cents per point, is worth $31.98 ((1,560 x 2.05)/100=31.98).

    Now, we can decide if paying the 4% service fee to earn points is worth it. 

    In this example, by choosing to use your credit card with the $40 processing fee, you’ll earn $31.98 worth of points.

    In other words, even accounting for the points you’ll earn, this transaction still costs you an extra $8.02.

    Does that sound like a good deal to you?

    Personally, I would rather keep the $40 in my bank account instead of earning $31.98 worth of points.

    To me, this is not even a close call.

    No deal or a good deal? Hand turns a dice and changes the expression "no deal" to "good deal", or vice versa illustrating the thought processs of using a credit card with a processing fee or using cash.

    It doesn’t make a lot of sense to trade in a higher amount of cash for a lesser amount of points. Not only are you technically losing money, cash is more flexible than credit card points. You can use cash everywhere.

    I don’t think it’s a stretch to say you’d be hard pressed to find anyone who would take $31.98 worth of points instead of $40 in cash.

    What if the processing fee was lower?

    Even if the processing fee was lower, say 3%, my decision wouldn’t change.

    At a 3% fee, the TV would cost $1,030 and you would earn 1,545 points valued at $31.67.

    In this scenario, it’s true that the points are worth $1.67 more than the processing fee.

    I’d still rather have the cash. I value the flexibility that $30 in cash provides me more than a comparable value in points.

    Admittedly, it’s a closer call when the processing fee is 3%. I won’t argue with you if you’d rather go strictly by the math and have the points in this scenario.

    Money is emotional, after all, like we saw when choosing to pay down debt using the Debt Snowball method.

    I went through this exact process when paying my property taxes recently.

    Recently, I went through this exact thought process when paying my property taxes. I had the option to use a credit card and pay a 2.1% convenience fee. 

    I chose to pay cash, even though the points I would have earned were worth $170 more than the convenience fee.

    The math indicated I should have taken the points. Still, I didn’t like the idea of paying another 2.1% on top of my already sky-high property taxes. 

    Even though I lost out on valuable points, money decisions are emotional. It felt better to not pay the extra 2.1% and to keep that cash in the bank.

    Setting aside the math and the value of credit card points, there’s another reason I have started using cash more frequently these days because of processing fees.

    These processing fees really bother me on principle. 

    You may disagree, but I don’t think it’s right for businesses to pass this fee onto customers when businesses do benefit by accepting credit cards.

    I especially don’t think it’s fair when businesses spring this fee on a customer when he is standing at the register about to pay.

    Maybe it’s just me, but these fees annoy me so much that I won’t go back to a business that passes these fees onto customers.

    If it’s a business that I simply can’t live without, and there are very few businesses that reach this level, I’ll pay cash instead of using credit.

    I’m not insensitive to the fact that certain businesses are struggling with inflation. If a business is having a hard time staying profitable without charging a 4% fee, I would prefer that it raises its prices by 4% instead of surprising me at the cash register with this extra fee.

    At least then, I can make an informed decision ahead of time about whether I want to eat at that restaurant or purchase that item before it’s time to pay.

    I know this is a polarizing debate. There are business owners who I’m sure would vehemently disagree with my thoughts on the matter. That’s OK.

    Businesses are of course free to choose how to run their businesses. As a consumer, I am free to choose to avoid certain businesses.

    Have you noticed this processing fees more often lately?

    Where do you come out on paying a processing fee to use a credit card?

    Do you want the points or the savings?

    Or, do you avoid that business altogether?

    Let us know in the comments below.

  • Good Credit Card Perks Besides Points

    Good Credit Card Perks Besides Points

    We recently discussed 10 credit card tips so you can benefit from credit card reward points without suffering from the penalties.

    Today, we’ll look at one of the other major benefits to using credit cards: the ability to easily track your monthly spending.

    This one perk can make staying on budget and fueling your Later Money bucket that much easier each month.

    When you consistently fuel your Later Money bucket, you’re moving closer and closer to financial freedom.

    Let’s take a closer look at how you can use credit cards as part of a healthy financial life.

    How to use credit cards to track your spending.

    Tracking your spending is a crucial first step in the budgeting process. But, that doesn’t mean that anybody actually likes doing it.

    The good news is that once you have created a Budget After Thinking and developed consistent habits, you no longer need to track every penny.

    Instead, you can track two simple numbers to stay on budget.

    Credit cards make it very easy to track these two numbers.

    Here’s exactly how I use credit cards to track my spending.

    When I get my monthly statement for each credit card, the first thing I do I add the amount and due date to my Notes app.

    I’ve been doing this for years now, which means I have a clear understanding of my family’s usual spending habits.

    I can then quickly assess whether it was a good spending month. For example, if I normally spend $4,000 per month on my card, and this month I spent $5,000, I’ll know very quickly that something is off.

    Sometimes, it’s obvious why I overspent. Maybe it was something like buying airplane tickets for a family vacation. If that’s the case, I don’t need to study my credit card statement too closely because I already know why my spending was more than usual.

    Other times, it’s not so obvious. When I don’t immediately understand why my spending was higher than normal, I take a closer look at my statement.

    In just a few minutes, I can look at an entire month’s worth of spending to determine where my money went so I can make thoughtful adjustments during the next month.

    This is how I stay on budget with two simple numbers.

    This same process also helps me track that month’s savings transfers to make sure I maintain a strong savings rate.

    Why I also track the payment due date in Notes.

    The reason I write the payment due date is to make sure I never miss a payment. This is the most important rule of responsible credit card use.

    If you miss even one payment on a single credit card, that missed payment will appear on your credit report. Your credit score will also drop.

    As a landlord, I play close attention to any potential tenant’s credit history and score. I am not willing to risk entering in a financial relationship with someone who has a history of missed payments.

    We recently received an application from someone who has missed 8 of her last 25 payments on her auto loan. That was a major red flag.

    I automate some, but not all, of my monthly payments.

    While we automate most of our monthly payments and transfers, we don’t automate all of them.

    Even though my wife and I only use two credit cards for our personal spending, we have business credit cards for our real estate properties.

    We also have mortgages and HELOCs that need to get paid at various times each month. I use the Notes function to remind me when these payments are due.

    For each credit account, I have automatic payments set up to pay the minimum required amount each month. I then pay the full balance each month manually.

    That’s because we have various sources of income that come in sporadically throughout the month. It’s simpler for me to pay certain bills manually instead of automatically.

    When you have multiple income streams, you have Parachute Money. Currently, our Parachute Money includes:

    • My primary job as a mesothelioma attorney
    • My wife’s primary job as an attorney
    • Rental Property 1
    • Rental Property 2
    • Rental Property 3
    • Rental Property 4
    • Law School Professor
    • Emergency Savings

    Using the Notes function helps me make the required payments each month after these income streams hit my checking account.

    What other benefits do credit cards offer?

    Credit cards offer a variety of other benefits to entice customers. Besides tracking your spending, two of my favorite perks are purchase protection and credit score monitoring.

    Purchase Protection and Fraudulent Charges

    Purchase protection is so important in today’s world. The last thing any of us needs is for our personal finances to get wrecked by scam purchases or fraudulent charges.

    Let’s say you buy something with Zelle, debit card, or cash. There are very little, if any, protections to get your money back if that transaction needs to be cancelled.

    Credit cards help prevent against fraudulent transfers, which is one of the best benefits to using credit cards besides reward points.

    Credit cards, on the other hand, typically offer the best purchase protection available. If you’ve been scammed or deceived in any way, your best bet at fixing that issue is to work with your credit card company.

    Also, credit card companies are generally very proactive and helpful in addressing fraudulent charges. If you do encounter any fraudulent charges, your credit card company will work with you to fix the problem.

    While credit card companies are pretty good these days at spotting fraudulent charges, I like to double check my online account to protect myself. To make sure I have not been targeted, I take about 30 seconds to look at my credit card transactions each week.

    Credit Score Monitoring

    Most credit card companies today offer free credit score monitoring through one of the major credit agencies, like Experian. You can see your credit score right in your online account.

    Your credit score will automatically update, usually once per month. You can see how your score changes from month to month and what factors currently influence your score.

    This is a very nice perk, as long as you don’t obsess over your credit score.

    How can I see all the benefits my credit card offers?

    Because there are so many credit card options on the market, the best thing to do is look up the card you have or are thinking about applying for.

    I prefer to visit websites like thepointsguy.com for thorough breakdowns and even valuations on each card’s offerings. This makes it easy to compare credit cards from different banks.

    You can also visit the credit card company’s website directly to learn the full extent of the benefits offered by each card.

    I use the Chase Sapphire Reserve and Chase Freedom Unlimited. Each card has a detailed webpage that details all of the benefits offered with the card.

    My favorite credit card benefit is still the ability to easily track your spending.

    Even with all these other benefits, my favorite credit card benefit is still the ability to easily track your spending.

    I’ve found this to be the easiest way to ensure I’m staying on budget and hitting my financial freedom goals.

    Do you use your credit cards to track your spending?

    What are your favorite benefits to using credit cards, other than reward points?

  • 10 Credit Card Tips for Lawyers and Professionals

    10 Credit Card Tips for Lawyers and Professionals

    In today’s post, we’ll discuss 10 credit card tips for lawyers and professionals so you can benefit from the perks of credit cards without suffering from the penalties.

    I’ll also share what two credit cards I carry in my wallet for all of my everyday spending.

    I’m a big fan of earning credit card points on everyday spending and turning those points into once-in-a-lifetime vacations.

    My wife and I have traveled all over the world together using credit card points. Using points, we’ve stayed at some incredible hotels like the Mandarin Oriental in Lake Como and the Park Hyatt in Sydney.

    The key is to recognize that credit cards are a privilege, like any other form of credit. If you abuse the privilege, you’ll face severe personal finance consequences.

    With that underlying principle in mind, here are ten credit card tips for lawyers and professionals:

    10 Credit Card Tips for Lawyers and Professionals

    1. Only charge what you can afford to pay off.
    2. Avoid overspending because you’re using credit instead of cash.
    3. Do not treat your credit card like an emergency savings account.
    4. Understand how credit card interest works.
    5. Never miss a credit card payment.
    6. Know the fees associated with your account.
    7. Learn how much points are actually worth.
    8. Use points for travel instead of cash back.
    9. Be strategic about what, and how many, credit cards you have.
    10. Don’t spend money just to earn points.

    1. Only charge what you can afford to pay off.

    While it may seem obvious to only charge what you can afford to pay off, many of us have trouble following this primary rule of responsible credit card use.

    Let’s look at some scary stats about credit card use to solidify this point:

    Before you read the rest of my credit card tips for lawyers and professionals, you have to internalize this first rule.

    You need to commit yourself to only charging what you can afford to pay off.

    This means creating a Budget After Thinking and staying within that budget.

    If you’re having trouble with that, check out this post on my top ten strategies for staying on budget.

    2. Avoid overspending because you’re using credit instead of cash.

    Making a purchase with a credit card instead of cash makes it seem like we’re not spending real money.

    We have all fallen victim to this tendency to overspend because of how easy it is to swipe a credit card.

    Whether it’s the daily Starbucks habit, running up a bar tab, or buying another new toy for your kid, it’s a lot less painful in that moment to use a credit card instead of cash.

    If you’re honest with yourself and know that you tend to overspend when using a credit card, try leaving your credit card at home. Bring some cash with you instead.

    The simple act of needing to pay with cash instead of credit is oftentimes enough to stop you from spending on that thing you don’t really want anyways.

    3. Do not treat your credit card like an emergency savings account.

    This may be the single most problematic area we’ll discuss in my credit card tips for lawyers and professionals.

    33% of Americans report they have more credit card debt than emergency savings.

    The main causes of credit card debt are unexpected medical bills (15%), car repairs (9%) and home repairs (7%).

    None of us are immune from these types of unexpected expenses.

    Be sure to establish an emergency savings account so you don’t end up relying on your credit card when the unexpected happens.

    These unexpected expenses can be substantial and result in monthly credit card balances that accrue large amounts of interest.

    4. Understand how credit card interest works.

    If you’re going to use credit cards as part of your everyday life, you should understand the basics on how interest is charged.

    This may be the most overlooked of my credit card tips for lawyers and professionals.

    Credit card interest is typically expressed as an annual percentage rate, or APR.

    If you carry a balance on your card, the credit card company charges interest by multiplying your average daily balance by your daily interest rate. You will be charged this interest until your balance is paid off in full.

    Credit card interest rates are typically variable, meaning they can change over time.

    In the abstract, it can be difficult to fully appreciate how penalizing credit card interest is on our finances.

    Let’s look at an example to better understand the consequences of carrying a balance.

    Let’s say you just moved to a new apartment and purchased a $1,400 TV using a credit card. You don’t have enough money saved up for the full purchase, so you decide to pay off $100 each month. Your credit card charges 23% interest.

    At that interest rate, it will take you 17 months to pay for that TV. You will end up paying a total of $1,645, which includes $245 in interest.

    The $245 in interest equals 15% of the original price of the TV. That means you paid 15% more than the TV actually cost.

    If that doesn’t catch your attention, don’t forget this is just the interest on one purchase after moving to a new apartment.

    What if you want to buy a new sofa to go with your TV? How about a coffee table and a rug? Floor lamp? End table?

    You can see how a 15% penalty on each of these purchases can start to add up quickly.

    5. Never miss a credit card payment.

    Write this rule down in stone: never miss a credit card payment.

    If you don’t remember any of the other credit card tips for lawyers and professionals, remember this one.

    It may seem unfair, but even a single missed payment can severely impact your credit history and credit score.

    Because the consequences of a missed payment are so severe, it’s a good idea to set up your account for automatic payments.

    You have options when setting up automatic payments. Ideally, you can pay your full balance automatically each month.

    If that won’t work for your situation, you can set up automatic payments for the minimum required amount to stay in compliance with your account terms.

    By paying at least the minimum amount required on-time each month, you will not be penalized with a missed payment.

    What is the minimum required payment?

    Credit card companies typically only require customers to make a minimum payment towards their balance each month. The minimum payment is generally 2% to 4% of your balance, or a predetermined minimum fee of around $35.

    It may sound enticing to only pay the minimum. However, you will be charged interest on that remaining balance. That interest compounds and will be a major drag on your finances.

    Candid shot of focused woman wearing headband and casual shirt paying credit card bills online after reading credit card tips for lawyers and professionals on Think and Talk Money.

    Let’s look at another example to see what happens when you only make the minimum required payment.

    Let’s say you have a credit card balance of $2,000. Your minimum required payment will likely be between $40 and $80 to stay in compliance with your account terms.

    In this example, assume the minimum required payment is $40. If you make the minimum payment of $40 out of your total balance of $2,000, that means your remaining balance is $1,960.

    On the next billing cycle, you will be charged interest on that remaining balance of $1,960. At 23% interest, you will be charged $37.39, which gets added to your total balance.

    So, on the next billing cycle, your total balance will be $1,997.39.

    Let that sink in.

    Even though you paid $40 last month, your balance only decreased by $2.61. Ouch!

    Note: this example is for illustration purposes only and may not be precisely how your credit card company calculates interest.

    By the way, credit card companies want you to only pay the minimum each month. That’s how they make so much money.

    How much money do credit card companies make in interest and fees?

    Hundreds of billions of dollars each year.

    6. Know the fees associated with your account.

    Beyond interest, credit card companies profit by charging fees, such as late fees and balance transfer fees.

    For these credit card tips for lawyers and professionals, I want to focus on the annual fees tied to rewards credit cards. These fees can cost hundreds of dollars annually and cancel out the value of any points you earn.

    For example, if you have a credit card that charges an annual fee of $500, and you only earn $400 worth of points each year, that’s a losing proposition.

    You’d likely be better off using a credit card that does not charge an annual fee, even if that means losing out on some points.

    For that reason, it’s important to do your homework before applying for a new card.

    So, how can you determine if you’re getting enough value out of your card to justify the annual fee?

    That leads us to our next tip.

    7. Learn how much points are actually worth.

    This is not an easy thing to do. Luckily, there are some great websites that are dedicated to credit card rewards that have done these calculations for you.

    I like The Points Guy for determining the value of credit card points. While it’s not an exact science, The Points Guy calculates the value of each credit card company’s points and miles every month.

    To give you an idea, The Points Guy currently values Chase Ultimate Rewards points at 2.05 cents/point and American Express Membership Rewards at 2 cents/point.

    With that information, you can then determine if a certain credit card is worth having in your wallet.

    For example, let’s say a particular Chase card you have charges an annual fee of $500 per year. When you look at your total spending from the previous year, you see that you earned 20,000 points using that Chase card.

    Using The Points Guy valuation of 2.05 cents/point, that means you earned $410 worth of points. That’s $90 less than what you paid as an annual fee to have the card. That’s obviously not a good tradeoff.

    Yes, credit cards come with other benefits that may add value to you. These benefits are oftentimes related to travel. If you travel frequently, these benefits may be worth it. If you don’t travel often, these benefits may not offer much value to you.

    Keep in mind there are plenty of credit cards available that do not charge an annual fee and still offer points.

    The takeaway is that you should regularly evaluate your spending habits and credit card reward programs to ensure you are still getting value from that card.

    8. Use points for travel instead of cash back.

    Many credit cards offer various options to redeem points. The easiest redemption option is to convert your points into cash that then gets applied to your balance.

    While cash back is the easiest redemption option, it is typically the least valuable. You’ll get far more value by redeeming your points for travel rewards.

    Traveler with mobile phone camera and map in hand looking at a cathedral after reading credit card tips for lawyers and professionals.

    Credit card companies like Chase and American Express have partnerships with airlines, hotels and other travel providers. You can transfer your credit card points to these travel programs to maximize the value of those points.

    If you’re reading a blog on credit card tips for lawyers and professionals, I’m guessing travel is a part of your life. Whether for leisure, business, or necessity, there should be plenty of opportunities to use your points for travel.

    To figure out the best redemption options, it takes a little bit of effort. There are endless options and entire websites dedicated to point redemption strategies.

    Before you get overwhelmed, I’d suggest first talking to your friends and family to see if any of them have already investigated the best redemption option for your personal situation.

    Did you know that talking about money, and credit card points, is not taboo?

    9. Be strategic about what, and how many, credit cards you have.

    There was a time in my life when I had ten different credit cards because I wanted to maximize the points I earned on every purchase.

    I had airline branded cards, hotel branded cards, and general travel rewards cards. I had credit cards with Chase, American Express, and CitiBank.

    My wallet was thicker than a Harry Potter book.

    I did earn a lot of points. But, it was so stressful.

    Keeping track of what card to use for every single purchase was complicated. Making sure I paid off each card every month was even harder. In the end, it wasn’t worth it.

    In these credit card tips for lawyers and professionals, I recommend you keep things simple.

    I now have only two credit cards in my wallet: Chase Sapphire Reserve and Chase Freedom Unlimited.

    I use the Sapphire Reserve for travel and dining and the Freedom Unlimited for everything else.

    We still earn plenty of points and our finances are much simpler.

    One other suggestion: if you’re in a relationship and share finances, I suggest you align your credit card strategies. Most major credit card companies allow you to combine points with a household member.

    You can more quickly accumulate points by focusing on a single rewards program, instead of spreading out those points among various programs.

    Same as me, my wife only carries the Sapphire Reserve and Freedom Unlimited.

    10. Don’t spend money just to earn points.

    As crazy as it sounds, you may be tempted to spend money you otherwise wouldn’t because you want to earn more points.

    It’s possible to become so obsessed with collecting points that you forget about the strong personal finance habits you’ve worked so hard to establish.

    It can be easier to justify careless spending when we trick ourselves into thinking that spending will eventually lead to a vacation. For example, if you have a credit card that offers bonus points at restaurants, you may be tempted to spend more money when you eat out.

    Or, you may be tempted to pick up the tab for your friends even though that spending doesn’t align with your budget.

    The temptation to earn points can overwhelm your plans to stay on budget. This logic applies to any type of spending, not just dining out and bar tabs.

    Use your credit cards to spend within your Budget After Thinking, not as an excuse to justify blowing your budget.

    To recap, here are my ten credit card tips for lawyers and professionals:

    10 Credit Card Tips for Lawyers and Professionals

    1. Only charge what you can afford to pay off.
    2. Avoid overspending because you’re using credit instead of cash.
    3. Do not treat your credit card like an emergency savings account.
    4. Understand how credit card interest works.
    5. Never miss a credit card payment.
    6. Know the fees associated with your account.
    7. Learn how much points are actually worth.
    8. Use points for travel instead of cash back.
    9. Be strategic about what, and how many, credit cards you have.
    10. Don’t spend money just to earn points.

    Let us know your best credit card tips for lawyers and professionals in the comments below!

  • Great Talk: Money and Fences

    Great Talk: Money and Fences

    Know anything about fences?

    We need to replace a 20 year-old wood fence at our home that’s one strong storm away from falling over. In these past few weeks, I’ve learned more about fences that I care to admit.

    On the bright side, shopping for a fence has led me to think about and practice many of the personal finance habits we talk about in the blog.

    Let me walk you through my thought process to help you whenever you have a big expenditure in front of you.

    In the world of privacy fences, there seem to be three primary choices available: wood, vinyl, and composite. I won’t bore you with all the details. The key points to consider for our conversation are:

    • Wood is the cheapest, but requires the most upkeep and will eventually need to be replaced.
    • Vinyl (plastic) comes with a lifetime warranty, requires little-to-no upkeep, but is 30-40% more expensive than wood.
    • Composite is the most durable, looks incredible, requires no upkeep whatsoever, has soundproofing ability, is made from recycled materials, comes with a 25-year warranty, but is nearly 3x more expensive than wood.

    We’ve ruled out wood after doing our research and determining that we’ve got too much going on to worry about annual fence upkeep.

    So, that leaves vinyl and composite. From our research, both would be good options. However, there’s really no doubt that composite is the best overall option, if you can stomach the cost.

    Talk to your people about expensive purchases.

    This is a big financial decision, so of course, I’ve been talking to my people for weeks about what they would do.

    I’ve gotten three common responses that go something like this:

    • “You’re planning to live in this home for the long run, make the investment in the best fence possible and never worry about it again.”
    • “How much do you really care about a fence? I’ve never even noticed my fence. Think of what other projects you could spend that money on.”
    • “Dude, leave me alone. I don’t want to talk about your fence.”

    As you can see, talking to your people does not mean that you’re off the hook for making the decision yourself. You will likely get a wide spectrum of advice.

    However, you’ll gain invaluable perspective to consider so you can make the best decision for your personal situation.

    Expensive purchases test your personal finance habits.

    Whenever you have a big purchase ahead of you, many of the strong personal finance habits you’ve been working to establish will be tested. You’ll be asking yourself questions like:

    My wife and I have considered all these questions as we’ve talked through the options.

    Rear view friends sitting on chairs talking at the bar but hiding from each other that they are in credit card debt.

    As of this moment, we’re leaning towards the composite fence so we never have to think about fencing again.

    To help defray the cost, we’re considering a financing option that offers 0% interest for 18 months.

    Important side note: if you ever choose to go with an attractive financing option, always read the fine print first.

    The lender is hoping you fail to pay off the purchase within the 0% interest period so you’re forced to pay insanely high interest on the remaining balance. The financing option we’re looking at jumps from 0% interest to 26% interest if we fail to pay off the loan in 18 months. That’s a serious penalty.

    Financing aside, we’ve also concluded that other projects will have to wait for a while so we don’t crush our money goals for the year.

    We’ll make our final decision this weekend.

    What would you do?

    Leave a comment below to help my wife and I decide.

    Sharing Think and Talk Money with Others.

    Over the past couple days, I’ve heard from several readers who have shared Think and Talk Money with people they care about.

    One reader told me that he shared the blog with his 25 year-old son. The reader was very appreciative because he’s experienced how important personal finance is.

    He knows his son will only benefit in the long run if he implements strong money habits at the beginning of his career.

    Another reader shared the blog with a friend who is now tracking her spending for three months. This is the first time she has ever tracked her spending to learn where her money is going each month.

    She is using her phone and a simple spreadsheet to track her expenses. She reports that even though it’s only been a month, she’s learning things about her money choices she never knew before.

    I love reader stories like this because they reflect one of our core philosophies at Think and Talk Money:

    It’s not taboo to to talk about money.

    When you start the conversation, you’re not just helping yourself, you’re helping people you care about.

    It doesn’t matter if you’re talking about paying for a fence or starting a budget. We all could use help when it comes to making good, consistent money decisions.

    Your friends are likely going through the same money challenges.

    Since writing about my challenges with credit card debt at the beginning of my career, I’ve had some great talks with friends I knew back then.

    Multiple friends have shared with me that they were dealing with the same credit card debt issues at the same time that I was.

    None of us ever knew it at the time. We were hanging out with each other every weekend, spending money we didn’t have. The joke of it all is that we were likely encouraging each other’s poor habits.

    Learning that I was in the same position as my friends all these years later does make me feel at least a little bit better about the mistakes I made back then. But, that’s not the important takeaway.

    The big takeaway for me is that if my friends and I were dealing with the same money challenges back then, we’re probably dealing with similar money challenges today.

    It might not be credit card debt from our social lives, but it might be something like saving for college or paying for a home. Maybe it’s what we should do when the stock market slumps.

    Just like we mentioned above, my friends and I will only benefit from having these kinds of money talks.

    Instead of just talking about mistakes we made in the past, we can talk about how to get it right as we move forward.

  • Better Results with a Savings Rate

    Better Results with a Savings Rate

    Do you remember when I asked, “What would you do with $20,000 right now?”

    Did you have a plan then?

    Do you have a plan now?

    Let’s turn this simple question into a hypothetical scenario.

    It’s time to learn one final (for now) important personal finance tracking metric, known as “savings rate.”

    Congratulations on your raise!

    Let’s say you’ve been at your job for a few years. Your current salary is $100,000.

    It’s salary review time, and you set up a meeting with your boss. You want to make sure she remembers all your major contributions from the past year.

    Prior to the meeting, you send her a letter setting forth your top accomplishments. It’s a hard letter to write. It doesn’t feel like a normal thing to have to brag about yourself.

    You remember seeing a quote somewhere, “If you don’t advocate for yourself, nobody else will.” You push on and send your boss the letter.

    On the day of your meeting, you’re nervous walking into your boss’ office. Why did I ask for this? She’s going to be so annoyed.

    Before you even sit down, she puts your mind at ease. Your boss has a welcoming smile on her face.

    She immediately thanks you for your thoughtful letter. She appreciates the reminder of all your accomplishments throughout the year.

    Your boss tells you that you’ve always been a valuable member of the team. She thanks you again for reminding here of some of the specific projects you worked on that year.

    It’s not a long conversation. Before you go, she asks what else the company can do to enhance your work experience. You walk out of her office feeling like a valuable member of the team.

    You’re happy that you initiated the meeting, even though you didn’t enjoy the process.

    A couple of weeks later, you receive an email that your salary is increasing by $20,000.

    You couldn’t be happier. You earned it.

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    Wait, a raise?

    Work continues as normal the rest of the week. By the time your next paycheck hits your bank account, you sort of forgot that you’re now making more money.

    After taxes and retirement contributions, your biweekly (every 2 weeks) paycheck is now for roughly $538 more. That comes out to $1,166 more money per month, which of course, is a very good thing.

    But, you need to figure out what you’re going to do with that money.

    Ideally, you’ll have a plan in place before you receive the money. Whether it’s a raise, a bonus, or you switch jobs and earn a higher salary, the thought process remains the same.

    Thinking about what to do with this new money is what I’m getting at when I ask, “What would you do right now with $20,000?”

    No, it’s not coming in one lump sump payment.

    Fine, you have to pay taxes on the $20,000 so it’s more like $14,000 in new money.

    The point of the question doesn’t change. What are you going to do with this money?

    3 options for what to do when you earn more money.

    You now have more income coming in each month. Let’s talk through some of the options on what you can choose to do with that excess money.

    Spoiler alert!

    I recommend you think long and hard about Option 3.

    Make more money, spend about the same.

    The odds are that you will make more money as your career progresses. Statistics show that the average salary for Americans tends to increase as we get older, up until about our mid-50s.

    Your career trajectory may be different, and you certainly may continue to make more money well-beyond your 50s.

    The takeaway is that you are most likely going to make more money. It’s up to you to make sure you put that money to good use.

    The best way to supercharge progress towards your ultimate life goals:

    Make more money, spend about the same.

    It’s easier said than done. But, this is the key to getting ahead in life with your personal finances.

    How can you measure whether you are saving more as you earn more?

    By tracking your savings rate.

    What is my savings rate?

    Your savings rate is simply the amount of money you save each month divided by the amount of money you make.

    Just like staying on budget with two simple numbers, you can monitor your savings progress with this simple formula.

    I find it helpful to measure your savings rate based on your monthly income and savings. This way it matches up with your Budget After Thinking.

    I also find it most useful to express your savings rate as a percentage. To see your savings rate percentage, all you need to do is multiply your savings rate by 100.

    Moving forward, when I refer to savings rate, I will be talking about your savings rate percentage. It’s more informative to see what percentage of your money you are saving, rather than an amount with no context.

    What I mean is this: if someone asked me if saving $10,000 per year was a good target, I wouldn’t be able to comment with more context.

    If that person was making $75,000 per year, I would say that seems pretty good. That’s a savings rate of more than 13%.

    If someone told me they were making $750,000 per year, and only saving $10,000, I would recommend that person revisit their Budget After Thinking. That’s a savings rate percentage of only 1.3%.

    Follow these tips for calculating your savings rate.

    Just like we talked about when creating your budget, don’t overcomplicate this process. Here are some suggestions to help you easily calculate your savings rate:

    When you calculate your savings rate, be sure to use your take-home pay for “Money Earned.” This means the amount of money that hits your bank account after taxes and retirement contributions.

    Like we discussed before, you’ve already made a terrific choice by investing it for retirement. Feel good about that. For calculating your savings rate, ignore it. We are only concerned with tracking how much we are saving each month from our take-home pay.

    This next part gets a little bit tricky to explain, but it’s important.

    If you get paid biweekly (every other week), that means you will receive 26 paychecks every year (52 weeks / 2 = 26). If you are paid twice per month, like on the 1st and 15th of every month, you only receive 24 paychecks.

    OK, so what?

    To determine your monthly take-home pay, so you can calculate your savings rate, you need to know the amount you earn for the whole year.

    To figure out how much you earn in a full year, multiply the amount you receive in one paycheck by 26 (or 24). That’s your annual take home pay.

    Then, to calculate how much you earn per month, divide your annual take home pay by 12. This is the amount you’re going to use for “Money Earned.”

    Enjoying serene moment. Successful satisfied millennial woman resting on comfy sofa at home looking aside with dreamy smile imagining pleasant things creating new plans visualizing future vacation because she tracks her savings rate with Think and Talk Money.

    For “Money Saved,” include all of the money you are putting towards your Later Money goals each month (except your retirement contributions through work).

    I know it’s called savings rate, but for this purpose, include all your Later Money in the savings rate equation.

    Of course, we know that “saving” is different from “investing.” Saving is also different than paying down debt or any other personal financial goal you’ve set.

    It doesn’t matter. When calculating your savings rate, your goal is to see what percentage of your take-home pay is fueling our Later Money goals.

    What can I learn from tracking my savings rate?

    Tracking your savings rate will help you understand if you are making progress over time. It’s not about comparing yourself to someone else.

    Whatever your current savings rate is, the goal is to seek personal improvement. Just like with tracking your net worth, the purpose is to see if you are making personal progress over time.

    When it comes down to it, there are really only two ways to improve your savings rate.

    1. You can spend less, and save more, of the money you’re currently making.
    2. You can make more money and save most of that money, all while keeping your expenses the same.

    Combining those two ideas is even better. Like we just said, make more money, spend about the same.

    Use the excess money you make to fuel your Later Money goals.

    If you can do that, your savings rate and your net worth will steadily climb. You’ll experience that your Later Money goals are closer to becoming reality than you think.

    Let’s do the savings rate math together.

    Now that we know what our savings rate is and why it’s such a useful metric, let’s revisit our $20,000 raise to do some math together.

    Going back to our hypothetical, you were making $100,000 before your raise. Let’s assume that your take home pay was $70,000 per year after taxes and retirement plan contributions.

    Let’s also assume you were putting $1,000 per month towards your Later Money goals.

    Using our savings rate percentage formulas above, we see that:

    • Money Earned = $5,833 per month ($70,000 / 12)
    • Money Saved = $1,000 per month
    • Savings Rate = $1,000 / $5,833 = .17
    • Savings Rate Percentage = 17%

    17% of your take home pay to fuel your Later Money goals is great!

    Now, let’s see what happens if you add your entire raise to fuel your Later Money goals.

    Earlier, we assumed that after taxes and retirement contributions, your take home pay increased by roughly $1,166 per month. With your raise, your annual take home pay has now climbed to $84,000, or $7,000 per month.

    Look what happens to your savings rate percentage when you add the full $1,166 to Money Saved (instead of spending it)

    • Money Earned = $7,000 per month ($84,000 / 12)
    • Money Saved = $2,166 per month
    • Savings Rate = .31
    • Savings Rate Percentage = 31%

    You more than doubled your monthly savings contributions and improved your savings rate to 31%!

    Think about how much more quickly you can reach your goals by planning out this one decision.

    I know what you’re thinking.

    This guy’s no fun!

    I earn a raise and he wants me to save it all.

    This is just an example. I’m not suggesting you have to, or even should, save your entire raise. I want you to spend your money on things and experiences that are meaningful to you.

    My point here is show you how dramatically one decision can accelerate your progress towards your goals.

    If you don’t want to save the full $1,166, can you save $600 each month while enjoying the rest? That’s still an incredible improvement.

    It’s your money and the choices are yours.

    Before you spend the whole raise though, think and talk it out with your people.

    Maybe you just need to ask yourself:

    “Is spending more money right now on things I don’t really care about going to make me happier?”

    “Do I even want to go out to more restaurants? Or fancier restaurants?”

    “Do I despise my home/my car/my wardrobe so much that I must replace it immediately?”

    Only you can answer these questions.

    Maybe you’ll realize that your life is pretty good right now as it is.

    You might just decide that you don’t need the extra money at this moment.

    You’d rather use the money as fuel for what you really want in life.

  • Q&A: Look for a Valuable Side Hustle

    Q&A: Look for a Valuable Side Hustle

    In this week’s Q&A, we talk about how the timing was right to launch Think and Talk Money, why you should consider a side hustle, and what comes next for the website.

    As always, please email your questions or leave a comment below or on socials.

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    I had been thinking about writing a book or starting a website for a couple years. Over the holidays, my dad gave me the final push I needed.

    We were casually chatting while the kids played in the other room. Out of nowhere, he said, “Matt, you should do it.”

    Do what?

    “You should write a book.”

    Oh, no biggie.

    I didn’t expect him to say that. He went on to explain how you get to a certain age and you look back on life and wonder where it all went. You think about all the things that you wanted to do but never got around to doing.

    No regrets, blogging then book.

    He knew I had been thinking about writing a book for a while and didn’t want me to regret not doing it.

    I thought about it and realized he was right. I would never forgive myself if I didn’t take this chance.

    Now that I’ve thrown this out there, I have to do it, right?

    There’s never a perfect time in life. If I didn’t start Think and Talk Money now, I might never have gotten around to it. Something always comes up. It’s too easy to make excuses.

    It’s true we have a lot going on. Fortunately, I had a system already in place that gives me time to write thanks to Hal Elrod’s The Morning Miracle.

    I hesitate to say a certain book “changed my life.” This might be one of them.

    For almost 10 years now, I’ve been waking up at 5:30 a.m. to read, journal, and relax. It’s so beneficial to have that time for myself, especially now with kids, before the day gets away from me.

    To learn more about the benefits of a daily morning ritual, check out Elrod’s miracle morning website.

    Since launching Think and Talk Money, I use my mornings to blog instead of reading. I like teaching and writing about personal finance, so my mornings are still enjoyable.

    That being said, I may need to adjust the schedule to read the latest book in the Empryean series, Onyx Storm.

    Short answer: I love side hustles.

    We’ll spend some time in a future post talking about all the advantages of having a side hustle.

    The obvious advantage is you can make more money. The important thing is what you do with that money to make the side hustle worth it. A side hustle is another time commitment, after all. If you’re going to take on the responsibility, make sure it counts.

    Before you consider a side hustle, have a plan in place for why you want additional money. Are you looking to pay down debt faster? Save for a wedding? Invest in your first rental property?

    One of my favorite experiences teaching personal finance to law students involved a side hustle. A couple of years ago, a student approached me during a break and told me about his credit card debt. It had been weighing heavily on him.

    After our discussion about side hustles, he committed himself to driving for DoorDash and using the income to pay off his credit card balance.

    Six months later he sought me out to share that the plan worked. His side hustle allowed him to pay off his credit card in less than six months. All while working a full-time job and attending law school par-time. I couldn’t have been happier.

    To help you think through why you might want a side hustle, check out these three posts:

    BTW, you’re not too busy or important for a side hustle.

    Some people reading this will automatically think, “I’m way too busy to even think about another job.”

    In my personal finance class for law students, we spend a lot of time challenging that notion. Very few people- and I mean very few- are too important or too busy to take on a side hustle.

    You may think you’re one of those “too important” people. I would challenge you to assess whether you’re confusing “too important” with “too stressed.”

    Setting that conundrum aside, the ideal side hustle is something you enjoy doing that can earn you extra money at the same time. Some examples my students have come up with in class include:

    • Bartending. Entice your friends to come to your bar by offering cheap drinks. You get to hang out with them and get paid at the same time.
    • Fitness instructor. Instead of paying $48 for the spin class you love, become the instructor and get paid to lead the class.
    • Dog Walker. If you love dogs and don’t currently have one of your own, what better way to fill that void in your life while making money. The same applies to babysitting.
    • Home Baker. Make homemade treats with your kids and sell them to parents who don’t have the time.

    There is always a way to make more money.

    The point is there are always ways to make more money by doing things you like to do anyways. Even if you’re busy. You just have to exert some mental energy to figure out how.

    I’m reminded of another conversation my dad and I had when I was in high school.

    Growing up, my siblings and I were busy kids. Sports, clubs, performances, classes, you name it. I made a remark to my dad about it at one point.

    He responded that being busy wasn’t a bad thing because you don’t have time to fool around. When you have no choice other than to stay focused, you actually perform better in all facets of life.

    You’re not thrown off by distractions because you’re locked in on accomplishing your goals.

    Smiling female bartender talking with customers as her side hustle to make extra money learned on Think and Talk Money

    After launching Think and Talk Money, I feel a heightened sense of focus. It’s benefitting me in all of my pursuits. I take care of business as best I can, while prioritizing my family and my health.

    I can see your eye rolls through your screen.

    This guys is nuts. He’s a workaholic. He has no life.

    The people who know me best would beg to differ.

    They might just tell you that I’m striving to build a life where I spend my working hours doing what is meaningful to me.

    I spend my personal time with the people that are meaningful to me.

    Yes, I’ve used HELOCs, which stands for Home Equity Lines of Credit, to scale my real estate portfolio.

    This question leads to so many concepts we need to discuss, from debt and credit to investing. We’ll come back to HELOCs more fully in a separate post.

    The bottom line is using HELOCs to scale your investment portfolio is a more advanced strategy that I would not recommend for everyone. I probably wouldn’t recommend it for most people, even experienced real estate investors.

    I say that for good reason. When you hear HELOC, think debt. For many of us, debt is problematic and leads to negative emotions.

    I experienced these negative emotions associated with debt. I only got comfortable with taking on debt as I learned to trust myself again with the responsibility.

    HELOCs are like credit cards, just in another form of debt.

    My advice: if you have proven to yourself that you can responsibly handle debt, using a HELOC may be a worthwhile strategy for you.

    By responsible with debt, I mean:

    If you satisfy all of the above, a HELOC may be useful to scale your real estate portfolio. If you’re thinking about using a HELOC in the near future and want to talk it out, please feel free to reach out.

    It’s only been five weeks, but I’m happy I took the chance to launch Think and Talk Money.

    It’s been fun.

    And, it’s been hard.

    First, the fun stuff. I’ve enjoyed writing and talking about personal finance concepts that are important to me. I’ve especially enjoyed all the interactions with our readers.

    One unexpected element I’ve appreciated is the sense of accomplishment that comes with publishing every post. This is very different from my experience as a lawyer where we typically work on a case for years before its conclusion.

    I’ve also had fun writing in a new style. I haven’t ever blogged before. I haven’t done any writing other than legal writing since college. If you’ve ever had the pleasure of reading a legal brief or court opinion, first off, I’m sorry. Second, you understand how different legal writing is from blog writing.

    Even though the writing styles are different, there is certainly some overlap in the fundamentals. My aim in both styles of writing is to be clear, concise, and informative. I hope to be somewhat interesting, as well.

    As a blogger, I’m still finding my voice, as they say.

    It can be challenging to make core personal finance concepts- like budgeting and saving money- educational, simple, and entertaining. If I’m doing my job, then my personal finance content should also be relatable and understandable.

    Please let me know you have any feedback on what’s working (or not working for you)!

    Now, for the hard stuff.

    My wife and I launched Think and Talk Money with zero knowledge, skills, or experience in starting a website.

    Can you tell? Be nice.

    We have no tech background whatsoever. Two months ago, I had no idea what SEO, caching, or plugins were.

    We also have no design or marketing background. I didn’t even have social media (other than LinkedIn) until we launched. The fact that we have 129 Instagram followers (don’t laugh) seems like a small miracle to me.

    My first post on LinkedIn had more than 12,000 impressions in the first few days. I still have no idea what that means, but it’s exciting!

    If you’ve ever started a website, you know exactly what I mean. Creating the content is only the first step. So much more goes into it behind the scenes. We’re still only scratching the surface.

    To sum it up, the tech stuff has been challenging and time consuming. We’ve learned so much already but have so much more to learn.

    Thank you to everyone who has reached out with tips and suggestions!

    I completely understand why this is an important question to think about. The truth is we’re just getting started and haven’t thought about Think and Talk Money in terms of an end game.

    I’ve always liked to teach and write, and this lets me do more of both. For now, our mission is to introduce the most important concepts of personal finance through the blog.

    We post three times per week on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

    Some of the posts cover core personal finance topics in depth. Other posts are more targeted and address specific strategies or lessons.

    A writer engrossed in their work at a desk overlooking a tranquil lake, finding inspiration in the natural surroundings to write about personal finance at Think and Talk Money.

    There’s an intentional order to the way we’ve been introducing concepts. The order is important and mirrors the curriculum in my personal finance class for new lawyers.

    We started with money mindset, then moved to budgeting, then moved to savings.

    These are core personal finance concepts that we will always revisit in the blog. If your mind is not in the right place, it doesn’t matter if you know the particulars of how to budget or save.

    We’ll soon move on to topics like debt and credit, investing, and real estate.

    So, what comes next for Think and Talk Money?

    My wife and I are thinking about all the options: podcast, online courses, personal coaching, speaking events, and a book.

    Of all these options, the book might be the surest thing. I’ve wanted to write a book for a long time.

    Whatever happens, we’ll do our best to continue creating valuable content and listen to what our audience wants.

    Let us know if you have any thoughts or ideas on what should come next!

  • How to Stay on Budget with Two Simple Numbers

    How to Stay on Budget with Two Simple Numbers

    Most of us humans are pretty good at avoiding things we don’t like. The things I’ve done to avoid mayonnaise…

    Budgeting falls into this category of avoidance. Even though most of us can appreciate that budgeting is a crucial step in money wellness, we still avoid it.

    Some of us give it a shot, and usually quit before we notice meaningful improvements. Just as problematic, some of us obsess over our budgets in an unhealthy and unsustainable way. This was me for a while. My obsession was mint.com.

    I didn’t have a healthy relationship with budgeting apps.

    If you used mint.com like I did before it ended, do you also have nightmares about those red tracking bars? Mint.com users know exactly what I mean. Overspend $11 on groceries? Red bar. One too many lunches downtown? Red bar! A last minute Saturday morning yoga class? RED! BAR!

    It still pains me to think about how many hours of my life I wasted trying to recategorize expenditures so those red bars would turn green. If I just move this box of cereal from Groceries to Social Life, that Groceries bar will turn green. Oh wait, now Social Life is red. OK, move those movie tickets to Car Repairs.

    When my wife was still courting me, I introduced her to mint.com. You might be thinking, “Matt, why on earth would you introduce her to something that drove you crazy!?” Valid question.

    She was a good sport and gave it a shot for a little while. Thankfully, she was smart enough to realize tracking every penny wasn’t for her. The whole thing gave her more anxiety about money. Think about that. The idea was to create a plan for her next dollar so she didn’t have to worry about money. All I did was make it worse by introducing her to a budgeting app.

    There’s an alternative to tracking every penny for the rest of your life.

    That experience paved the way for my preferred budgeting method that my wife and I still use today. We discussed this method briefly in our recent Q&A post.

    Please keep in mind this method is for people who have already created a Budget After Thinking and are honestly dedicated to creating fuel for their Later Money. Only when you get to that point will you no longer need to track every penny. At that point, your money motivations will be so strong that you’ll stay on track without needing to track every expenditure.

    If you’re not there yet, don’t worry. You will be soon. Follow my top ten budgeting strategies until good habits become second nature. Then, move on to this simple plan.

    My preferred tracking method is a version of zero-based budgeting.

    Zero-based budgeting was first introduced in the 1970s by Peter Pyhrr. (I don’t love the name, either.) The main idea is that every dollar has a job, something we already talked about in our conversation about eliminating disappearing dollars.

    In my version of zero-based budgeting, you don’t need to track every penny. You don’t need budgeting apps or complicated spreadsheets.

    You’ll only need to focus on two numbers each month to know whether you are on track or falling behind. I’ll show you those two numbers below.

    Before you get too excited, I need to reiterate this key point: if you want to succeed with zero-based budgeting, you still need to first create a Budget After Thinking. Otherwise, you won’t be able to figure out the key two numbers that you need to focus on.

    This step is for those people who have already tracked their spending for at least three months, made thoughtful adjustments so their spending is in line with their values, and now know exactly how much fuel they can generate for their Later Money every month.

    OK, so how does this all work?

    I mentioned there are only two key numbers you’ll need to focus on each month:

    1. Your checking account cushion.
    2. Your Later Money transfer amount.

    Let’s explore each number.

    1. Your checking account cushion is your safety net.

    A checking account cushion is the amount of money in your checking account that you don’t plan to spend. The purpose of the cushion is to give you a little breathing room so you can pay your bills, even if you overspend in one month.

    Without the cushion, if you have a tough spending month, you either need to skip paying certain bills or skip making your Later Money transfer. Neither option is acceptable. The first option leads you into debt. The second option halts progress on your most important life goals.

    The checking account cushion gives you protection.

    How much of a checking account cushion do you need?

    How much of a cushion do you need? It depends on whether you have consistent income (regular paychecks), or are paid inconsistently (commissions, freelance, contract, etc.)

    If you are paid with consistent paychecks, I recommend your checking account cushion equal the amount you’ve planned to spend in your Now Money category from your Budget After Thinking (don’t worry, example below). This amount should give you a comfortable safety net without leaving too much money in your checking account that could be better used elsewhere.

    If your pay is inconsistent, you’ll need a larger cushion to cover the larger gaps between pay days. I recommend you have double the amount of your Now Money. Note, you may have to tweak this amount based on your unique situation.

    In our really lost boy example, he received paychecks biweekly. A good checking account cushion was $3,600 (equal to his Now Money).

    This means that there should be $3,600 in his checking account to start each month. At the end of the month, after paying all of his bills and making his Later Money transfers, he should still have $3,600 left in his checking account. That’s his checking account cushion.

    It’s OK if your checking account cushion temporarily dips below the amount you started the month with. This could happen during the time of the month when you pay certain bills, like your rent or mortgage. Don’t worry. The amount in your account will climb back up once you receive your next paycheck.

    A final point: don’t spend this cushion. Fight the temptation to use your checking account cushion to pay off bills or debt. Without that safety net, zero-based budgeting does not work.

    2. Your Later Money transfer is the main reason you’re budgeting in the first place.

    This number reflects the whole purpose of budgeting in the first place: to create fuel for your ultimate goals in life. If you don’t know what your goals are, revisit our conversation on why you should want to be good with money. It all starts with what you truly want from your life and how you can use your money to get it.

    When you’ve created your Budget After Thinking, you’ll know exactly what this amount is. In our really lost boy example, the total Later Money transfers added up to $2,050. In future posts, we will discuss where to transfer and what to do with this Later Money. No matter what, the goal is to put this money to work for you to progress towards your goals.

    By focusing on just these two numbers, (1) your checking account cushion and (2) your Later Money transfer amount, you don’t have to track every penny. You’ll know if you are hitting your goals or falling behind just by looking at these numbers.

    Now that we know the two key numbers to focus on, let’s see how this all works.

    How to ensure you are on track with your money goals with just two numbers.

    Sticking with our really lost boy, he predetermined that his checking account cushion is $3,600 and his Later Money transfer amount is $2,050.

    At the start of the month, that means he had $3,600 in his checking account. Throughout the month, his checking account balance increased when he got paid (our really lost boy earned $7,500 per month). His checking account balance decreased whenever he paid for things like rent ($2,200) and any other bills.

    The checking account cushion ensured that he had enough to cover all of his expenditures throughout the month. For example, if his rent was due on Wednesday, and he wasn’t getting paid until Friday, his checking account cushion ensured that he had enough in his account to pay the rent on time. His cushion might fall temporarily below $3,600, but his next paycheck would soon replenish his account.

    As the month went on, various bills came due. Utilities may be due on the 7th of the month. Credit card bills on the 15th. These payments can all be automated so he didn’t have to actively worry about them. Again, his checking account cushion guaranteed he had enough in his checking account to pay them.

    Towards the end of the month, in a perfect world, our really lost boy would have exactly $5,650 left after paying all of his bills. He could then transfer the predetermined $2,050 of Later Money to his various Later Money accounts. He’s then left with a checking account cushion of $3,600 and is ready to begin the next month.

    This is not a “set it and forget it” budgeting method.

    This is not a “set it and forget it” budgeting method. Think and Talk Money is all about exerting a little bit of mental energy on your money every week. This budgeting method is a good illustration of what that means. You don’t need to track every penny, but you still need to pay attention to your money choices.

    To help you with that, I suggest that you glance at your banking or credit cards apps once a week to monitor your spending. If you use credit cards or electronic payments for most expenditures, it is quick and simple.

    The reason it’s a good idea to glance at your banking apps is to make sure you are relatively close to your spending targets. If you notice that you’re overspending in the first half of the month, you can make the appropriate adjustments before the month ends.

    This small amount of effort throughout the month is worth it. Every time you make that Later Money transfer at the end of the month, you’ll feel exactly what I mean.

    Don’t strive for perfection.

    I said above “in a perfect world” to highlight that we’re not striving for perfection. That’s an impossible standard. One month, our really lost boy might have only had $3,300 left after making his Later Money transfer. That’s fine. It’s a temporary blip that he could easily fix, if he’s honestly dedicated to his life goals. He had a couple of options.

    His first option was to course correct the next month by spending $300 less. That could mean temporary adjustments in his Now Money or Life Money, such as skipping a couple dinners out, doing yoga at home, and buying chicken instead of steak at the grocery store.

    His second option was to replenish his checking account cushion from his specific budget busters savings account. What is that, you ask? It’s a separate savings account to cover you if you have one of these higher-spending months so you can keep your money plan progressing.

    In some months, you will actually underspend.

    Where do you get the funds for such an account? Believe it or not, in some months, your spending will come in under budget. Let’s say our really lost boy had one of these good spending months in January. Maybe he did Dry January and ate all his meals at home for health reasons to compensate for all the holiday celebrations.

    In this example, the result was he spent $500 less in January than he had budgeted for. Instead of leaving that $500 in his checking account (bringing his cushion up to $4,100) where it turns into disappearing dollars, he transferred it to his budget busters savings account.

    Then, when he had a high spending month, he could make a transfer back into his checking account to keep his cushion at $3,600. All while continuing to make his Later Money transfers every month.

    If you constantly run out of money before making your Later Money transfers, this method is not for you, yet.

    Always remember the goal of your Budget After Thinking is to generate fuel for your life goals. If you’re not making these Later Money transfers, you’ve defeated the purpose of having a budget in the first place.

    Don’t feel embarrassed or sad if that happens to you. Take it as a sign that you need to explore your Now Money and Life Money spending to see what adjustments you can make. Once you’ve found those adjustments, you can come right back to my version of zero-based budgeting.

    If you want this plan to work, where you only need to focus on two numbers instead of tracking every penny, you need to be honest with yourself that you’re ready for this.

    Decide for yourself what budgeting method works best for you.

    If you’ve been successful tracking your spending in a spreadsheet or a budgeting app, and enjoy the process, you should continue to do so. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, right?

    On the other hand, if you’ve created a Budget After Thinking and consistently hit your Later Money goals, you’re probably ready to stop tracking every penny, if you’d like.

    To recap, my version of zero-based budgeting is for those people who want to continue to fuel their Later Money goals without the anxiety of the spreadsheet. Instead, focus on those two numbers: (1) your checking account cushion and (2) your Later Money transfers. This is what I’ve been doing for years and it has worked.

    Happy boy with a bundle of money dollars cash who has a checking account cushion and Later Money.

    If your cushion falls short one month, that’s OK. We are not striving for perfection. Make up for it the next month or use your budget buster savings account to replenish your checking account. And, keep making your Later Money transfers.

    Has anyone else experienced mint.com anxiety? Are you currently using a budgeting app? How do you like it? Has any tried zero-based budgeting?

    Let us know in the comments below.

  • Help a Professor Out: Ask Your Money Questions Here

    Help a Professor Out: Ask Your Money Questions Here

    Think and Talk Money’s motto is “Money Wellness Together.” The more we all talk, the more we all benefit. The best way to keep the conversation going? Ask questions!

    I’ve learned through teaching in law schools for the past 15 years that most of us prefer seminars with questions and answers to long lectures. Thanks for all the great questions so far! I’m hoping we can do a Q&A post like this just about every week.

    Please keep the questions coming in the comments on any post, by responding to our newsletter, or on Instagram.

    In our first Q&A post, we’ll cover my favorite personal finance books, whether you should keep your condo as a rental unit, and the most important question of all: what is Italian beef?

    What a great question. I always recommend starting with books that focus on money mindset. Like we always talk about, the first step is getting our money mindset in the right place. I would start with:

    1. Rich Dad Poor Dad by Robert Kiyosaki. There’s a reason this is the best selling personal finance book of all time. If you read Rich Dad Poor Dad, your entire money mindset will be changed. Kiyosaki brilliantly shares the stories he learned growing up from his Rich Dad (really his best friend’s dad, very successful real estate investor/business owner) and his Poor Dad (his actual dad, highly educated/traditional career path). Using these two role models in his life, he makes a very compelling and easy to follow case that most of us go about life and money all wrong.

    Read Rich Dad Poor Dad. It will light a fire under you like no other book I’ve read.

    2. Think and Grow Rich by Napoleon Hill. Another longtime classic that will shift your money mindset. I first read this book in college when I learned my friend’s dad offered him $50 if he read this book. $50 to read a book? I’m in.

    Originally published in 1937 and recently updated, Think and Grow Rich, will convince you that we can all be successful. Hill studied innovators like Henry Ford and Thomas Edison. In the updated version, you’ll learn about modern figures like Bill Gates and Mary Kay Ash. To translate the title into my own words: Wake up! Use your brain! You can be successful in any walk of life if you just stop sleepwalking through life like everyone else and do something!

    Read Think and Grow Rich. You will be motivated to do that thing you’ve been saying you would do, but haven’t yet.

    3. The Richest Man in Babylon by George S. Clason. A third classic originally published nearly 100 years ago. Clason wrote a simple collection of fables set in the ancient city of Babylon to illustrate the power of fundamental money habits: earn, save, invest, protect. Through his stories, you’ll see how you can get ahead in life by practicing strong financial wellness habits.

    Read The Richest Man in Babylon. You’ll understand the building blocks of a healthy financial life.

    4. Your Money or Your Life by Vicki Robin and Joe Dominguez. Vicki Robin and Joe Dominguez are often credited for laying the groundwork for the Financially Independent Retire Early (FIRE) movement. They have a lot to say about the relationship between money, work, and time.

    Most of us are doing it all wrong. We chase money at the cost of our precious time. By making good choices about how to earn money- and as importantly what to do with that money- you can get the most out of your money and your life.

    Read Your Money or Your Life. You will start to value your time for what it’s really worth.

    5. Die with Zero by Bill Perkins. Perkins makes a strong case that many of us are saving too much for retirement. We work too many hours and save more money than we’ll ever need. Instead, we could be using that money during the best years of our lives to create lifelong memories.

    Perkins also questions the conventional wisdom of waiting until we die to pass money onto our kids. He suggests helping our kids earlier in life when the money will be more meaningful.

    Read Die With Zero. You won’t wait any longer to book that vacation you’ve been putting off for no good reason.

    If you have read these books already, but it was some time ago, read them again. I didn’t fully appreciate all the lessons until I was years into my career and knew what it felt like to work for money.

    In Part 3 of our series on budgeting, I gave you 10 of my favorite tips to help stay on budget. One of the tips involved a game my wife and I play called the “$500 Challenge.”

    If $500 is a nonstarter for you, increase the amount of the game. Whether you play with $750 or $1,000 or more, the point of the game remains the same. If $500 is too much for you, pick a smaller number that works. The amount doesn’t matter. The point is to set a number for yourself that will get you back on track after overspending in the previous month. January is a great time to play the game.

    When I said I‘m not a fan of a rigid budgeting framework like 50-30-20, this question illustrates exactly why. Elizabeth Warren popularized 50-30-20 in her book, All Your Worth: The Ultimate Lifetime Money Plan, first published in 2005.

    In a 50-30-20 framework, you must choose what category to put your health club membership in. Same with every other borderline expenditure. What if you think working out should be Now Money, but it pushes you over 50%? OK, just move it to Life Money. Wait, now I’m over 30% in my Life Money. Why is this so hard?

    men and women biking in gym, spinning in health club, thinking about their money and their lives.

    Take it from me and my students who have attempted 50-30-20 budgeting, making these choices gets to be very frustrating. What is the point in agonizing over decisions like this?

    So, what should you do with your health club membership?

    It doesn’t matter! You saw in our really lost boy’s budget that I counted it as Now Money. Today, I’d actually probably count it as Life Money. How’s that for an answer!?

    Instead of agonizing, pick a category and leave it there. The whole purpose of our budget is to generate fuel for our Later Money. Whether that fuel comes from adjustments to Now Money or Life Money is irrelevant.

    In our Budget After Thinking, we’re not limiting ourselves by rigid frameworks and agonizing over spending categories. We’ve got better things to focus on, like creating more fuel for our dreams.

    Nope! I’m going to do a post soon on what I recommend for people that have done the budgeting thing for a while and have a pretty good idea what their spending is. If you’re at that point, and are relatively responsible, you won’t need to track your spending anymore.

    Let’s look at a quick example. Say you learned that your Budget After Thinking includes $1,000 of Later Money. That means each month, your top priority is to put that $1,000 of fuel towards your financial goals.

    In this plan, you’ll need a “cushion” in your checking account to make it work. In this example, let’s use $5,000 as our cushion. At the end of the month, after you’ve made your Later Money transfers out of your checking account, and you’ve paid all your bills and credit cards, you should have $5,000 left.

    If you have less than $5,000 left, compensate the next month by spending less so you get back to $5,000 at the end of month 2. If you’ve way overspent, that’s an indication you are not ready to stop budgeting.

    No matter what, don’t short your Later Money. Do the $500 challenge if you need to. If you have more than $5,000 left, transfer the surplus to your savings account so you can use the excess to cover budget busters or top off your checking account if you overspent a little the previous month. 

    This budgeting process is similar to zero-based budgeting, a concept that’s been around for a long time. I find this method takes almost all of the anxiety out of budgeting. The key is you just have to be disciplined enough that if you have less than $5,000 left at the end of month 1, you course correct in month 2 so you’re back on track. 

    I’m a real estate investor, so my mind always goes first to keeping the condo as a longterm rental unit. Based on the question, it seems this reader is interested in real estate investing, too. If that’s true and your financial situation permits, I would consider keeping the condo as a rental unit.

    It could be a great way to see if you like being a landlord without putting time and resources into acquiring a different property. Best case scenario, you hold the condo for many years and it turns out to be a great investment. Worst case scenario, you sell it in a year or two if being a landlord isn’t your thing.

    Of course, there are so many factors that go into real estate investing. You need to do your homework first on whether your condo is a plausible rental unit. Leave a comment below or reach out on Instagram if you need some help deciding if your condo might be a good rental unit.

    This person, I cannot help.

    Fortunately, there’s a current Emmy winning show out there about Chicago and Italian beef!

    Thanks for all the questions! Please keep them coming in the comments on any post, by responding to our newsletter, or on Instagram.

  • 10 Tips to Win the Budget Game

    10 Tips to Win the Budget Game

    In Part 1 of our series on budgeting, we learned how to eliminate disappearing dollars by creating a plan for Now Money, Life Money, and Later Money.

    In Part 2, we used a real life example to work through the budgeting process together. We learned that even seemingly minor adjustments can add major fuel to your Later Money bucket.

    Here in Part 3, we’ll take a deep dive into my top 10 strategies for making thoughtful adjustments so we can consistently win the budget game.

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    When I was playing basketball growing up, I learned the concept of “seeing the ball go through the hoop.” When I was struggling to make a shot, my coach encouraged me to drive to the basket and make an easy shot. Once I saw that I could make an easy shot, I had my confidence back.

    By seeing the ball go through the hoop, I subconsciously reminded myself that I could do it. There was nothing wrong with me. I was ready for more challenging shots.

    Anyone who has been around young kids has witnessed this same phenomenon. My son is learning to swim. When he proudly drifted (with a life vest on) two feet from me on his own, he proudly exclaimed, “I’m swimming! I’m swimming!” It didn’t matter that neither his arms nor his legs were moving.

    Once he saw that he could enjoy the pool without holding onto dad for dear life, he wanted nothing to do with me. He knew for himself that he could do it.

    This concept works in a lot of different money situations, especially when making thoughtful adjustments to your budget. In our really lost boy example, we made small adjustments to our grocery budget, phone and internet bills, and social life spending.

    These adjustments were easy to implement and added major fuel to our Later Money. Just as importantly, there was an additional psychological benefit in proving to ourselves that we could make improvements.

    Start small. See the ball go through the hoop.

    The point of starting small is to identify beneficial adjustments that are relatively painless. Focus on the “relatively painless” part. Canceling your social life will not be relatively painless. Your social life consists of ongoing experiences that bring you happiness. We always should strive for more of those experiences, not less. So, don’t cancel your social life.

    Looking again to our really lost boy, you probably noticed that I made small adjustments to my Life Money. However, even those small adjustments did not result in less time with my friends.

    This is a key point: I didn’t spend any less time with my friends than I did before. Instead, I thought and talked about alternatives so I could still see them without spending a lot of money.

    In recent years, my students have thought and talked about some great examples of this concept in action. For example, say your friends are going out to dinner on Friday night. You know it’s going to be more expensive than what your Life Money permits.

    Instead of going to the dinner (and wrecking your budget), or not going to the dinner (and being sad at home), what alternatives can you think of?

    One student suggested you can meet your friends beforehand for happy hour. Another student suggested you take a pass on dinner and invite your friends over to your place later that weekend for coffee and bagels.

    If you don’t want to spend your Life Money to go see Taylor Swift in concert, invite your friends over to watch the documentary on Netflix.

    The common theme is that you still get to spend time with your friends, while keeping more money in your pocket.

    Surprise, surprise! More talking! I recommend you talk to your friends about the thoughtful adjustments you’re implementing with your Life Money. Like in most life situations, communication is key.

    Once your friends know that you are working on thoughtful choices in your Budget After Thinking, they will happily support you. They’ll know that you aren’t blowing them off. In the rare instance that they don’t support you in striving for your dreams? You may need to question if these are the right friends for you.

    The art of budgeting is not about cutting, especially when it comes to things you love. Budgeting is about thinking and talking to find solutions or alternatives.

    You can keep doing the things that bring you happiness at the same time you’re making progress on your life goals. It just takes a little bit of mental effort.

    Making small adjustments works in all areas of your budget, not just your social life. Let’s look at travel, a major expense, but also one of the best sources of life experiences for a lot of people.

    For our really lost boy, cutting out travel completely was a nonstarter. My sister lived in Los Angeles, one brother lived in Washington D.C., and the other brother studied abroad in Spain. My best friends from college lived in New York and Virginia. My grandma was in South Carolina.

    If I wanted to see my people, traveling was part of the deal.

    Traveling was also a huge expense, and paying for all that travel brought me a lot of stress. I needed to think and talk about a solution so I could travel for less money. You know where this is going, don’t you?

    Instead of exerting mental energy worrying about how to pay to travel, I exerted mental energy to master the game of frequent flyer miles and credit card points. I researched the best credit cards for travel points and how to best use those points for free flights and hotels.

    I learned the most affordable days of the week to fly and the best times of the year to visit certain places. Yes, this took mental effort. But, this was more preferable mental effort than worrying about money.

    Even if you don’t want to take these steps, you can still make thoughtful decisions about cutting back on even one or two trips a year, which I also did. I spent less money, but the added benefit was that I appreciated each trip even more.

    I had more time to look forward to that trip and more time to remember it before another trip distracted me.

    Fun, friends, travel and tourism concept. Beautiful girls looking for direction in the city because they've followed these 10 budgeting strategies.

    Do not use credit cards just to earn points.

    This is not a recommendation. It’s a requirement. Stay tuned for a future post on responsibly using credit cards to earn free vacations.

    For now, the only rule that matters is to not overly spend on your credit cards just to earn points. That is a recipe for disaster.

    Using credit cards to travel only works to your advantage if you can pay your bills, in full and on time, each month.

    “Triple points!!!”

    Years ago, my friend and I were out to dinner with our wives at a nice neighborhood spot in Chicago. When the check came, I pulled out my credit card. He pulled out a debit card. I nearly fell out of my chair.

    It’s not that using a debit card is a bad choice. It’s a great choice for a lot of people. In this instance, however, I was shocked because I knew this guy very well.

    We had travelled all over Europe together. We had just spent most of dinner talking about trips we had taken and trips we wanted to take. This friend is also one of the smartest guys I know, a statement that I will forever deny and insist that I was hacked, if he ever reads this.

    I was shocked he wasn’t using a credit card to earn points so he could travel for free.

    I couldn’t help myself and had to ask my friend about the debit card. (What do you want from me, I like to talk about money.) Turns out he just never really thought about using a credit card. He wasn’t actively avoiding credit cards, he just didn’t know there were advantages to go along with the potential negatives (if you don’t pay your bills).

    My friend was an instant convert. He was thrilled (maybe an understatement) to learn about how he could travel for free with credit card points. He began responsibly using credit cards and never looked back.

    To this day, he won’t leave me alone any time he earns “TRIPLE POINTS!!!” or books a free vacation for his family. I love it.

    Another one of my favorite tricks was inspired by Marie Kondo, famous for helping people de-clutter their houses by asking a simple question, “Does this item spark joy?” If it does, keep it. If it doesn’t, get rid of it. So simple, and so powerful.

    Marie Kondo is an inspiration. In my opinion, there is no clearer display of brilliance than taking a complex matter (like organizing your house) and distilling into a simple, understandable idea.

    We can apply the same strategy to any area of our spending. Does this subscription bring me joy? If yes, keep it. If not, cut it. Does this health club membership bring me joy? This expensive clothing store? What about attending concerts? Sporting events?

    If these things don’t honestly bring you joy, cut them from your life and your budget. Italian beef or unagi? Either one is fine, if you’ve determined for yourself that it brings you joy.

    When you spark and cut, you’ll create more money to fuel your Later Money goals. Just as important, you’ll likely find that you don’t miss those things or activities.

    You’ll value your newfound time and freedom to pursue those remaining parts of your life with more dedication.

    What should you do if you overspend one month? Don’t get discouraged and give up. Before all your hard work goes to waste, take the next month to course correct. If you overspent by $300 in your Life Money in December, make it a priority to underspend by $300 in January.

    Is this easier said than done? Well, sure. It’s always easier to say you’re going to do something. The hard part is following through. It will take discipline to get back on track. What will drive that discipline?

    Once again, it’s your ultimate life motivations that we’ve talked so much about (and will always continue to talk about). Without that clear vision of your ideal life in front of you, no budget will ever last.

    Don’t panic. Course correct. Stay on track.

    When I veer off track and have a bad spending month, I try to not get down on myself. I’m human. It happens. So, lemons to lemonade. I make a game out of it called “The $500 Challenge.”

    My wife and I started playing The $500 Challenge years ago. The game was simple. Each of us had to limit our Life Money for the month to just $500. Whoever spent the least that month, won the game.

    I’ve never won the game. My wife is… competitive. I cope by lying to myself that she wins because I enjoy paying on date nights.

    We’ve played this game several times to course correct after a high spending month. January is the perfect time of year for this game since the holidays in December often result in overspending.

    The $500 Challenge has many benefits. When we succeeded, we’d be right back on track for our goals. Even if we couldn’t quite stay under $500 (never an issue for my wife), this game still reminded us to to prioritize the experiences and things in life that truly mattered to us.

    Get creative with nights out.

    My favorite part of the game was it forced us to get creative with our nights out. One of my favorite date nights was a product of the $500 challenge.

    We had just moved to our new neighborhood. It was a Friday night. People were out and the city was bumping, per usual in summertime Chicago. We set out for a walk to explore with only one rule: we had $20 to spend or less on dinner for two.

    Young couple with glasses of wine having romantic candlelight dinner at table, closeup because they budgeted after learning about think and talk money.

    We weren’t going to waste that money on an Uber, so we just started walking. A couple miles later, having learned all about our new surroundings, we ended up at a casual restaurant we had never been to.

    We ordered a plate of nachos to share off the happy hour menu. We even had enough money left for one of us to wash it down with a cold beer. The nachos were great and the vibe was perfect. The check, with tip? 19 bucks.

    We walked home, which helped digest our dinner, and went to bed feeling light in the belly and heavy in the wallet.

    About 10 years ago, my mom bought me a jacket for a birthday present. It was the exact jacket I wanted. How did she know, I asked her. “You mentioned it when we were downtown four months ago.” Four months ago!

    I shouldn’t have been surprised. My mom has one of those steel trap memories. If you only met her for five minutes and then saw her again two years later, don’t be surprised when she asks about your consulting gig, your trip to New Orleans, and that blue dress that she really liked.

    I learned from my mom’s gift strategy and modified it to help myself resist the temptation to make impromptu purchases. I don’t have her memory, but I do have a phone with a notes function.

    When I see something that I might want to buy, I do my best to resist the temptation of buying it immediately and make a note in my phone. After a couple weeks, if I still want that thing, I buy it.

    More times than not, I no longer want whatever it was that tempted me in the moment.

    We’ve been focusing on smaller adjustments, but of course, bigger adjustments can have a bigger impact on your overall budget. Making bigger adjustments means examining your biggest expenditures, which for most people is housing and transportation.

    If your life situation allows for big changes in these areas, you should by all means consider them. After all, reducing your housing costs by $500 by switching to a less expensive apartment opens up a lot of dollars to deploy as fuel elsewhere. That one decision can make a big impact.

    The challenge that I have personally experienced with big adjustments and continue to observe in my students today? Making big adjustments is not realistic for everyone.

    Let’s talk about switching up your housing situation. By going big in this scenario, you are giving up your home. This may be a realistic and intelligent decision for someone in their 20s, with no dependents, and living somewhere with ample housing units available.

    On the other hand, moving to a new home may not be realistic for someone with children in school and strong roots in a particular community.

    To advise that family to pack up their home and move away could be counterproductive. While they’ll save money, they’re giving up a part of their lives that may be very important to their overall happiness. That tradeoff might not be worth it.

    The same rationale applies to transportation costs. Like our really lost boy, if you live in a city with public transportation, you probably don’t need a car (or an expensive parking spot).

    If you have kids and regularly drive them to dance class, swimming, soccer, gymnastics, piano, music class, ski lessons, and grandma’s house (yes, this is my life right now), giving up your car is not realistic.

    How can I adjust my rising housing costs without giving up my home?

    It’s because of these complicated tradeoffs that I encourage everyone to start with small adjustments while you’re thinking about bigger adjustments. As you think and talk about the bigger adjustments, you may unlock other solutions that don’t require you to move.

    For example, if you’re renting an apartment, you could negotiate with your landlord about locking in a longer term lease at a fixed rent. That way, you keep your largest Now Money expense consistent and avoid paying more each year as your lease renews.

    I employed this strategy with great success when I rented an apartment in Chicago, generating a lot of fuel for my Later Money by staying in the same apartment for seven years.

    This strategy works for families, too. A buddy recently moved to a new state with his wife and two kids. Instead of buying a house right away, he signed a four-year lease on the perfect home for his family. He has a wonderful place to live and his costs are fixed for the near future.

    What can I do if I’m a homeowner?

    If you’re a homeowner, what can you do to reduce your expenses without giving up your home? You may not want to re-finance your mortgage in today’s environment, but could you address other rising home ownership costs?

    As an example, I recently re-caulked and re-grouted my shower. I had never done that before, but I watched a lot of YouTube videos like this one. The project took me a while, in small bursts, but doing so saved me close to $1,000.00.

    I also felt satisfaction for learning something new and getting a job done despite my many frustrations along the way.

    In the long run, is $1,000 saved going to pay off my mortgage? Of course not. This is just one example to illustrate that we can all use our mental energy to think about solutions, without giving up our homes.

    This thought process can be repeated endless times, and does not only apply to DIY projects. From your couch, you can work on lowering costs related to home insurance, maintenance, and utilities by making phone calls or sending emails.

    When you’ve trained yourself to exert mental energy to solve your rising home ownership costs, those savings will add up. You can lower your expenditures without giving up your house.

    Budget busters are any inconsistent expenditures, good or bad, that can derail your planning. Good budget busters might include trips, weddings, and holiday/birthday gift shopping. Bad budget busters include unexpected car repairs, home repairs, or medical expenses.

    Note, budget busters are inconsistent; they are not unexpected. These expenditures are 100% predictable every year, we just don’t always know when they will surface. Planning ahead for budget busters is crucial to staying on track.

    To do so, open up a savings account, preferably at a different bank than your checking account. This helps isolate those funds so those dollars don’t disappear.

    As part of our really lost boy’s Budget After Thinking, you’ll recall that we had a separate line item for budget busters in both our Now Money (bad budget busters) and Life Money (good budget busters).

    I encourage you to do the same. Each month that you don’t spend your budget buster money, transfer it to your savings account so it’s there when you need it.

    One more bonus tip for dealing with budget busters. We talked above about how to course correct when you exceed your budget in one month. On the flip side, what should you do when you’ve had a great month and underspent?

    I recommend you transfer the amount you underspent to your budget busters savings account. Don’t let that hard-earned money sit in your checking account. Those dollars will disappear. By transferring them to savings, those dollars will be at your disposal when needed.

    We’ve covered a lot of ground here to help generate fuel for your Later Money. To recap:

    These are the strategies that have worked for me in the past and continue to work for me today. I hope you’ve see than budgeting does not have to be hard and nasty. It just takes a little mental energy, exerted ahead of time.

    Whether these specific tips work for your personal situation isn’t the point. I promised you before that I won’t tell you what to do with your money. Review my tips and focus on the thought process to identify solutions that might work for you.

    Have you used any of these strategies? What about other strategies that worked for you?

    Drop a comment below or on the socials to keep the conversation going.

  • How to Budget with a Real Life, Really Lost, Boy

    How to Budget with a Real Life, Really Lost, Boy

    In Part 1 of our series on budgeting, we learned that the art of budgeting is having a plan for your next dollar before you earn it. That way, you avoid having disappearing dollars. It’s not a good feeling to work hard all month and then realize you have nothing to show for it.

    We also learned the three steps to get started with a realistic budget based off your current personal situation:

    • Step 1: Track your spending for at least 3 months.
    • Step 2: Separate your spending into 3 main categories.
    • Step 3: Make adjustments so your spending better aligns with your true motivations and desires in life.

    Here, in Part 2 of our series on budgeting, we’ll use a real life example to work through the budgeting process together. Through this example, you’ll see how even seemingly minor adjustments can make a big impact to your budget.

    In Part 3, we’ll take a deep dive into my top 10 strategies for making thoughtful adjustments to our budgets so we can add more fuel to our financial and life goals.

    Before we get ahead of ourselves, let’s meet a real life, really lost, boy.

    Learning from a real life, really lost, boy.

    In today’s budgeting example, we’ll look at real numbers from a real life, really lost, boy: 26-year-old Me. Remember when I told you I started a money journal in 2010? The dollar amounts below are what my actual income and spending looked like back then, adjusted for today’s dollars and rounded for easier math.

    For some context, I was 26-years-old, living by myself in Chicago (no dependents, no pets), and working as a slasher. Not a joke, that was my actual job title. I worked for a judge with the Appellate Court of Illinois, and as the junior member of the team, my responsibilities included lawyer duties and secretarial duties. I was a judicial law clerk “slash” secretary. Hence, slasher. Lawyers are funny, huh?

    In today’s dollars, I earned an annual salary of $90,000.00. That means I earned $7,500.00 per month. We did not have bonuses at the courthouse, so the $90,000.00 salary was my full compensation.

    How to benefit from this budgeting example.

    The benefit of going through an example like this is not to compare your situation to mine. Your income might be much higher or much lower. Same with your expenses. Instead of the numbers, focus on the thought process so you can start to think about adjustments that suit your current life.

    Below, you’ll see charts showing that I completed each of our three budgeting steps:

    • Step 1: I tracked my spending for 3 months and reflected the average monthly amount for each expenditure in the column labeled “Baseline Budget.”
    • Step 2: I created a separate chart for each of the three main categories: Now Money, Life Money, and Later Money.
    • Step 3: I made thoughtful adjustments to better align my spending with my true motivations in life. I illustrated my decisions in the third column labeled “Budget After Thinking.”

    Now Money

    Now Money is what you need to pay for basic life expenses. These are expenses that you can’t avoid and should be relatively fixed each month. If you have expenses for kids, pets, and other fixed life expenses, be sure to include them in your Now Money category.

    What I learned tracking Now Money.

    Now Money is pretty easy to track. There is not a whole lot of variance from month to month.

    You’ll notice immediately that I had one major expenditure that needed immediate adjustment. That parking spot for $430? Definitely did not need that. I lived 2 miles from work in one of the best cities for public transportation in the country. It was frustrating at times to look for street parking, but I didn’t use my car enough to justify the cost of a parking spot.

    The other adjustments resulted in more minor savings, but don’t ignore these. Each adjustment took relatively no effort to make, just a little bit of thought beforehand. When I say relatively no effort, I mean three phone calls and three reductions for car insurance, internet, and cell phone. That’s $70 saved per month, or $840 saved per year, for about 30 minutes of effort.

    Otherwise, I decided to show a bit more restraint when grocery shopping and found a cheaper place to get my haircut.

    All told, I reduced my Now Money Budget After Thinking by $585 per month with a little bit of thought and hardly any effort. That’s $7,020 per year of fuel for my Later Money.

    Life Money

    Two happy girlfriends looking on the shopwindow while standing with shopping bags near the mall because they created a budget with think and talk money

    Life Money is what you spend every month on things and experiences in life that you love.

    What I learned tracking Life Money.

    When you’re reviewing your Life Money expenses, don’t be overly aggressive in cutting here. These are the things and experiences that make your life enjoyable. Even modest adjustments can make a big difference in the long run.

    In Part 3 of our series on budgeting, I’ll show you my favorite strategies for adjusting your Life Money without sacrificing the things and experiences you love.

    As we saw with Now Money, with some thought and very little effort, I reduced my Life Money Budget After Thinking by $250 per month. That’s another $3,000 of fuel for my Later Money.

    Some bonus tips for tracking Life Money

    Life Money is the most annoying category to accurately track. These expenses vary month-to-month. You may buy concert tickets or have a trip planned some months, but not every month. So, how do we get an accurate picture of our Life Money?

    This is why I recommend you track your spending for at least three months. You’ll get a more accurate picture because you can average your Life Money spending over those 3 months and balance out any inconsistencies. Of course, if you have the patience to track your spending for even longer, you’ll get an even more accurate picture.

    Fortunately, it is easier to track our spending today with the availability of apps and online banking platforms that can automatically track your spending. We’ll review some of these tracking options in a future post.

    Keep it simple when tracking your Life Money.

    I highly recommend you keep it simple when tracking your Life Money. Many of my students give up on budgeting because they make this category more complicated than it needs to be. I really struggled with this at first because I was so concerned about doing it right.

    What I learned was that it doesn’t matter. If you go to happy hour with friends, don’t agonize over whether that goes into your “Dining Out” category or your “Drinks” category? It doesn’t matter. Make it easy on yourself. Have one category called “Social Life” and move on.

    Don’t forget that the point of budgeting is to learn your current habits so that you can make thoughtful adjustments. Don’t let yourself become so obsessed with the details that you get stressed and give up on budgeting.

    Break down large, annual expenses on a monthly basis.

    One last tip, when you have large expenses, like season tickets or a big vacation, it’s helpful to break down those expenses on a monthly basis. That way, you can see how much those individual purchases are impacting your overall monthly goals.

    I’m not suggesting you actually pay for that trip over 12 months (like on a credit card), or that you can only spend that much on travel in a certain month. Think of it this way: you likely will not take a trip every month of the year.

    Using my Budget After Thinking figures, let’s say I did not take a trip in January, February or March. That would mean that for my planned April trip, I now have $1,600 available that I can use, assuming you didn’t let those dollars disappear. In Part 3, we’ll talk about what to do with the money you didn’t spend in the first three months to make sure they don’t disappear when April rolls around.

    Later Money

    happy family mother father and children dancing at home  in their home they bought by budgeting with think and talk money.

    Later Money is what you are saving, investing, or using to pay off debt. This is the fuel for your most important goals.

    *This was pretax money to my employer’s retirement plan. For budgeting purposes, it’s easier not to count the amount here.

    What I learned tracking Later Money.

    This is where all your efforts in tracking your spending and making thoughtful adjustments starts to pay off, IF you have a plan for your next dollar before you earn it.

    In my baseline budget, I was very good about paying my student loan debt in full every month. I knew enough not to mess with student loans. The consequence was my credit card bills were the last to get paid each month. This usually meant only paying the required minimum since I had run out of money by this point. It also meant no money for savings or investments.

    In my Later Money Budget After Thinking, because of the thoughtful choices I made with my Now Money and Life Money, I created $800 of fuel.

    With that fuel, I had committed myself to paying off my credit card debt as quickly as possible. I also wanted to start the habit of saving each month. So, I added $750 of fuel to my credit card bills and $50 of fuel to my savings. I stayed true to my plan and put that money to work. Otherwise, what was the point of budgeting?

    Some bonus tips for tracking Later Money.

    When I run through this exercise with my students, I usually get a question along the lines of, “I’m aiming to save 20% of my income each month. Should I count the pretax money I’m saving for retirement towards that 20%?”

    It’s a sneaky question. Think about it: the rest of your budget relates to your take-home paycheck, meaning your after-tax money that hits your checking account. Your retirement savings are typically withdrawn from your paycheck before taxes and before you ever see the money.

    How to account for your pretax retirement savings can be another one of those tricky areas when you start budgeting. In my example, you may have noticed that I contributed $300 of pretax money through my employer’s retirement plan, but I did not count that money in my budget calculations.

    Should you count that money if you’re aiming to save a certain percentage each month? Setting aside that this question demonstrates how a standardized framework, like 50-30-20, can be very confusing…

    Yes! Give yourself credit where credit is due! Contributing to your retirement plan is a good choice. If you are aiming to save 5% or 10% or 20% each month in Later Money, count your pretax money towards that goal.

    Make budgeting as easy as possible for yourself.

    That said, I want to encourage you to make budgeting as easy as possible for yourself so you stick with it. In my example, I excluded the $300 pretax retirement savings because I am creating a plan for the $7,500.00 that hit my checking account each month. These are the dollars in jeopardy of disappearing.

    The entire point of your budget is to create a plan for your next dollar before you earn it. You already wisely chose to save your pretax dollars by enrolling in your employer’s retirement plan. Those dollars are already accounted for and working for you. They are not disappearing dollars. You did your job!

    Like in my example above, you can exclude the amount you’re saving for retirement in pretax dollars from your budget calculations. Feel good knowing that you’re saving that money. It’s icing on the cake. No need to worry about it when budgeting.

    The real life, really lost, boy was starting to figure it out.

    Let’s look at the complete picture before and after I started the budgeting process:

    Income of $7,500

    With some thought and relatively little effort, I was able to stop the disappearing dollars and start making progress towards my ultimate life goals.

    In my baseline budget, I was spending more than I earned each month. That meant I had no money to pay my credit card bills, which kept getting bigger because I kept spending. In my Budget After Thinking, I broke my habit of living above my means and generated $9,600 of fuel in one year for my Later Money goals.

    Taking these first steps may seem like minor steps on the way to financial independence, but they were the most important steps I ever took on my personal financial journey.

    The real life, really lost, boy was starting to figure it out. The spark was lit. There was no turning back.